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Where's Mike? Section 11: Espana
Click here to see Section ten: Heading home...or not?
Tuesday November 15th
Sant Pere Pescador, Espana: I woke up in France and am now in Espana. I realize they share a border, but I am still always amazed by how fast I cross them. I guess I am also taking into account that I was in Germany just a couple days ago, and I have been traveling slowly! It would be much more of a push to nail the US, and three other North American countries, in the same time-frame. Darn near impossible!
As the camp workers arrived to continue their year-end bookkeeping, I wandered in, mentioned no one was around last night, and settled up. The 9e I paid for, essentially, free-camping was a waste, and I was eager to head out early, so did. However, shortly after my departure, I began seeing more and more flooded fields and washed out roads. Agde and Beizers were bad, but once I got to Coursan, where the Aude river flows through town, there was some real stress in the air.
Of course, I decided to stop, and take measure, and photos, of the situation.
The river level was clearly above street level, but, due to a protective wall/dyke system, and an up-river diversion stream for high water, things were ok for now. As some residents casually strolled through town, below water level, hands in pockets, and others worried not about their supped up sports cars, clearly below water level, and surely a loss if the water gained another 20cm, there were the serious few who gathered at waters edge to discuss what could be done to stop the flow, if the need should arise.
The food is better, the tolls are worse, but at least some things are the same as in the US of A...including lookieloos, of course consisting of exclusively men, offering advice to the town officials, who are no more able to control the forces of mother nature now, than prior to the input of said townsmen.
I headed south, while I still could, and stopped again, with a tear in my eye, and surveyed a flooded, and getting worse,
Farther south, in Narbonne, I came across a bit of a flooded section under a small overpass. Luckily, the signs in the middle of the road said it was still open for Hymers (Route Barree, Route Inondee), so I washed the bottom of my rig of the road dirt collected the past few days, stopped to make sure all was ok, being as things got a little "floaty" in that last section, and continued out of town.
Still hugging the coast, and avoiding the tolls, on
roads I can't flash anyway, I enjoy the coastal views of highway 9, as
it turns into 114,
A few minutes later, and I am in Espana, and looking
SW, into the lowering sun, over coastal Portbou...another beautiful
This section of road is incredibly beautiful, slow, and twisted as it hugs the outline of the rugged coast. Most definitely a must-see for any visitor wishing to see Espana.
Ultimately I wound up just south of Figueres at Aquarius Camping boasting very clean and modern facilities, beach-side sites, a restaurant, bar, and camp store that are still open in this off season, and, in addition to other entertainment options, movies in English at least a couple times a week...subtitled in German, French, or Italian, depending on the crowd that particular night. It had been a long time since I have escaped into some mindless recreation, so, after dinner, I enjoyed The Mexican with a couple of Brits and a Dutch bicyclist. _____ Camp Fee (paid today from night prior): 9 Fuel: 55e at 51l and 92174km with 418 driven Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 1 Supplies: 10 Misc: 0 Odometer: 92317
Wednesday November 16th
When I arrive in town, the streets, people, and wildlife keep me mesmerized until well past the morning bus. Some guy at the internet shop mentions that he will be heading into to Figueres at 13:30, and is more than happy to
give me a ride, so I go check out the Wed market till then. While there, I bump into the Brits from last night, who, mention that Figueres has a great market on Thursdays. Yikes! So much to do, and so little time. I wind up going to meet the guy who was going to take me into town, just to tell him I am going to hold off until the next day. He was a no-show, regardless.
I wander around town for a couple more hours, and then head back to the campground, and beach. A bit too cool to take a swim, but it was nice to watch the lowering light on Costa Brava and enjoy a chapter in a new book before heading back to fire up the barbie.
_____ Camp Fee from prior night/s: -- Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 1.5 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 92317
Sant Feliu de Guixols, Espana: Salvador Dali. Surrealist? Visionary? Or just a whack job? Label him how you wish, but he has a great museum. One of, if not the, favorite of my trip. It is really a great collection of expression, and well worth the 10e admission, and 7e for secure parking (for a moho). These costs also make it the most expensive museum I have seen in my travels the past several months.
I bid adieu to Aquarius Camping this morning, and drove into town
for a view of what Figurese has to offer. I hate to drive into any town of significant size, but Figurese is not, and also, doing so would make my departure from the area a lot easier.
The Dali Museum is an interesting, and unique, treat from the get-go.
As I consider it more...the Humptys (not really,
they are just eggs)
on the roof, the twisted bread stuck to the outer walls, and the, oft,
warped treasures inside, pleasantly impress me more than any of the
other scratchings,
Regardless of location, anyone with at least a mild interest in art should try to stop and see some of his work.
The Carbon Study for Tuna Fishing, series, was impressive in that it showed a different side to Salvador. Less of a surreal, rebellious, F-you, I'll toss it out there, standpoint...and more of a realistic depiction of people, albeit naked, working on day-to-day goals. But what do I know? Maybe I just like the simplicity of carbon on cotton? From my photography days, I have always appreciated the contrast of B&W.
I too, really liked the river rock paintings. Numerous, and all depicting something, one, or where, in an incredibly, subtle, at times, manner. At other times...not so subtle, yet still interesting, and fascinating to observe.
I actually got sort of stuck at the entrance cathedral, as well, with a massive, crack-head (ok, it was actually cracked, and I have no evidence of drug use), bald, towering over some beat up old beast of a car, complete with made up, dressed up, and junked up mannequins gracing the interior.
On display just down the street, but for the same entrance fee, and actually in the same converted theater, are the Dali Jewels...including the drawings and paintings he used as a template for their creation. Again, from the same man, an interesting collection of nothing I would wear, but absolutely worth a view.
The Wraths of Grape, the Bleeding Royal Heart, and the Beating Heart (to see it in action is oddly unsettling), are a few of the four dozen pieces he created.
A good day, and I am now rough/free camping on the coast just south of Sant Feliu de Guixols. It is a beautiful overlook, with almost no traffic. Could not find any campsites by the time night was falling, and did not want to drive past this spectacular coast in the dark. The occasional ship passing off shore.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 25.53e for two nights. Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 10 Supplies: 20 Misc: 17 for parking and museum fees Odometer: 92,487
Friday November 18th
el Masnou, Espana: GREAT camp site last night. No cars from about 10pm till 7am. A ship or two, I would occasionally notice through the open curtain, passed in the night, and a few more this morning, including one tossing out, and hauling in, nets, below me...Jacobs ladder as the backdrop, to what will turn out to be a stormy early winter day.
The morning views alone made me very happy I stayed the night, and chose to do the rest of Costa Brava in the daylight. Would have been a fool not to. It is a rugged coast, and it, like the WA coast, the Croatian coast, the Cinque Terre, and the Amalfi coast all sort of draw me for some reason.
I wound up making it less than 100 clicks today! :-) Camping Masnou is just outside of Barcelona, right on the beach, and about half a click from a train stop. Very convenient location for visiting the city. I found a site on the upper terrace, on the far end, where I could look out over the rest of the park, and the Mediterranean Sea.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 30e Misc: 0 Odometer: 92,573
Saturday November 19th
el Masnau, Espana: I was up with the sun this morning for some beautiful views from the moho window. Still impressed with how nice a spot this has turned out to be. After breakfast and a shower, I wrote up a few notes on my trip so far, since it has been a while, and then headed into town to see what I could see.
I vaguely remember something about rice not being good for birds on account of it swelling up after being eaten? One of the reasons newlyweds stopped have it thrown as they make their escape from the church. Doesn't seem to affect the Barcelona pigeon population though.
Before searching out the Picasso Museum, I decided to wander down the Ramblas, a terrific pedestrian walk through the heart of town.
There was a pretty impressive outdoor bird market,
an ok flower market, and one of the best local food markets I have come
across. This is a permanent one, located just off the main drag, and it
is huge, and packed with tourists and locals alike. I planned on
staying late for dinner, so could only buy a few things today, but just observing was a blast. People were absolutely packed in closer than elbow to elbow. Having my backpack was a minor hassle.
Continuing my walk, I ran into a few people trying to "give" me flowers, and sprigs of rosemary, which were essentially things I could pick out of the various plant boxes if I chose. I saw an interesting argument, which I momentarily watched, and then remembered a piece of advice I was given by some fellow traveler, who told me these things are simply staged performances by local pickpockets. I had my pack securely strapped down and sealed, but I still did not hesitate too long for the action. Another interesting bit of a scam was the old shell game.
Almost walked away when a couple of guys asked me to take their picture, but then realized I would be holding the camera, so just how much of a scam could this be? Besides, who wants to go through life afraid of their shadow? I framed it well.
I continued downhill to the Christopher Columbus Monument, headed down to the harbor, which was not such an attractive place, and then headed down some side street for a bite of lunch.
After Lunch I found Picasso's Museum and spent an hour plus checking it out. Picasso's are ok, but he never was my favorite artist. I do sort of enjoy some of his works from his blue period.
As darkness set in, it got quite cold, and I was finally happy for having carried by stocked day pack around. With a jacket donned, I did the Ramblas again. It really is two totally different walks from night to day, and I would highly recommend doing them both.
Hunger drove me into some incredible tapas bar with a convex semi-circle (80% of a 40 foot diameter) bar with dishes and wine displayed behind a sneeze glass. There were about 50 varieties, in two staggered layers, hot and cold, displayed at any given time, with others constantly replacing what was running low. About the same number of wines were scattered between them, making it easy for you to choose what you would like to enjoy.
The way it works, here anyway, is that you just grab your seat at the crowded bar, and then start pointing. Getting up to walk around to view the more distant good, and pointing between other patrons, is perfectly acceptable. The top layer are bite sized morsels you can order just one of, if you wish, but the bottom layer are the snails, meat balls, stews, veggies, beans, pastas, and more, that come as one portion...ideally meant to be shared by more than one person.
I was lucky enough to be sitting next to a couple of Canadian guys, also interested in tasting a bunch of things, so we were able to share the portions between us...including a few bottles of wine.
I had no idea what things cost, as no prices were listed, but was happy to find that after more than two hours, and a very filling dinner, the bill was less than 75e. With a tip, my total came to 25e, which was expensive by my typical standards, but absolutely worth the whole experience, and range of tastes.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: -- Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 33e lunch, market, dinner. Supplies: 0 Misc: 8e for the metro and museum Odometer: 92,573
Sunday November 20th
Vinaros, Espana: Moving on this morning, I headed south on N11, trying to hug the coast, but going through Barcelona, I got pushed onto E90 to the west, until I managed to catch my smaller 340 over the Coll de la Creu d'Ordal. Slow going on the steep road up, almost as slow, on the windy way down. Hooked up with the coast again just north of Tarragona, and then 340 followed the coast all the way into Vinaros. Nice campground for an overnighter on my way to Valencia
Camp Fee (paid today from night prior): 33e for two nights Fuel: 55e for 58l at 92,658km for 484 traveled since last tank. Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 7e Supplies: 0 Misc: 9 Odometer: 92,807
Monday November 21st
Vinaros, Espana: Was planning on just a quick stop here in Vinaros, but sort of liked the campground, heard there is a Tuesday market, and heard they had a nice bike shop as well. One of my next door neighbors, a Brit, had a friend who got a great bike for only 40e just last week! My kind of deal. I decided to hang for at least another day and see what I could see.
Walked into town, stopped by the bike shop, saw an old junker with a rack and basket, asked the price, and practically died when I heard it was only 130e!!! Not a chance would I buy this rust bucket for that much. I was hoping they would say something like 20-30e! I must have no clue.
Off for a walk around town, where I did find a paper towel holder...after searching every grocery store from Dortmund, through Switzerland and France for one...a dish tub, some wine, a great looking steak, and some fruits & veggies. I think the last time I had a good steak was in Verbier Switzerland...so I deserved one.
Several hours after my departure from camp, I walked back into camp, and sorted out a plan. My friend Don asked me to do some research on Ribera del Duero wines, and this seemed like a good day to get a jump start. I had found four today, in three different stores, and I decided to try them all.
On the block were an '02 Mayor De Castilla Crianza for 5.25e, an '01 Vina Pilar' Crianza for 5e, an '02 Arribeno Crianza for 4e, and an '04 Arribeno Cosecha for 2e. Essentially I got every Ribera Del Duero wine they had in town. At these costs, I doubt these are the best, but I will bump into more when I visit the region later in Dec. This will, however, give me an OK starting point. Harems, one of my biking neighbors from the Netherlands, brought over a salad and some pasta, to go with the steak, in addition to offering me some assistance in tonight's tasting task.
In reverse order from above, the '04 Arribeno Cosecha had a very soft cork, bright ruby red, fruit forward nose, and short finish. The second taste, after about 30, min showed no fruit, no finish, and high alcohol.
Whew, ok, the steak and veggies on the grill will be fine.
Onto the '01 Vina Pilar' Crianza...with it's darker burgundy color, minimal nose, a bit of fruit, and hardy tannin. I am doubting if the fruit will last long enough to lay this down at all? Med finish...with a bit of tartness toward the end. More macadamia...verses gorgonzola as in the last one. The only one with a real (first use) cork as all others were recycled. Round two and the wine is opening up as well. May be my favorite out of the bunch This may also be due to the fact that while camping out, I have been surviving on mostly table wines for the past five months.
I found the '02 Mayor De Castilla Crianza to have high clarity and a bright burgundy color, dry, and a little cherry fruit on the nose. Round two showed a bit of blue coming through on the nose. I am beginning to wonder if I like a "good" Rioja, but will have to continue experimenting while in Spain. A good wine though, regardless of the blue showing on the second round. A real connoisseur would enjoy this one.
As the temp dropped, we called it a night, which left a good amount of wine for trying tomorrow.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: -- Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 38 Supplies: 9 Misc: 0 Odometer: 92,807
Tuesday November 22nd
Calp, Spain: Continued south along Espana's eastern coast on my way to Valencia. A friend of mine, Denton, and I, visited here about five years ago, and enjoyed it a lot. The disco bathroom was the best.
We were sitting at the bar, in a double square-shaped bar, connected at a corner, and I had to take a leak. As Denton held our seats, and watched our drinks, I wandered from square one, back into the other, which housed the disco area of the establishment.
It was impressive! Several scantly dressed, attractive, girls without enough men to occupy them, were all up against this huge mirrored wall...writhing, gyrating, and wiggling their evening away as they gazed into their polished reflection. A nice sight to see, for sure, and I definitely observed a bit, as I walked my way to the back, where the door to the men's room awaited. If I was not mistaken, many of them turned and gave me sly smiles, as well!
As I entered the blocked open door, I saw a smartly polished row of sinks and a wall-sized mirror behind them. Around the corner were the urinals, with this incredible black granite backing, polished to an unbelievable sheen!
I was contemplating the amount of money I was currently relieving myself on, when the dim reflection of the disco lights on the urinal wall, flashing from left to right, up and down, circular, became apparent to me...along with the outline of attractive girls writhing, gyrating, and wiggling. OH SHIT! The open door, the mirrors above the sink, all the girls dancing just outside!!!! They could see inside! I turned quickly to look, saw the mirrors over the sink reflecting a blank white wall. Hmmm, that cant be it. As I turn back to finish business, I realized this polished black granite urinal wall was, in truth, a huge sheet of mirrored glass with the dance floor opposing! Looks like the girls are having a great time of it.
I made it back to the bar, and told Denton that he really needs to go relieve himself. The briefest moment of confusion, as he thinks he is ok, and then he gets up and leaves. He comes back not being able to contain his laughter. They all gave him a sly smile as well. :-)
This time around, the campground staff was on siesta. I could wait for 90 minutes to check in and get my site, or I could be 90 minutes farther south, and into the warmth, by the time they re-opened. Nothing could be better than my last trip to Valencia, so I am now in Calp, at Camping Levante, for the evening. Nice site, but rain, and pricey for a nights sleep.
Oh, traveling in a moho with four open bottles of wine (left over from last night) presents a challenge. How do you store them so they don't leak? I figured out places to stash them all, but plan on not having to travel like that again. The wines, after a day, were mostly fair, with Vina Pillar still showing some fruit and mellow tannin.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 19e for two nights. Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 1.5e Supplies: 5e Misc: 0 Odometer: 93116
Wednesday November 23rd
Mojacar-Turre, Spain: Long, slow, drive along the back roads until I hit Camping el Quinto at dusk. Nice little on-site beer garden/pub with a wood stove (I started it for the owner, who was definitely having problems on her own. Warming fires are not often needed in this area of the world, so she was out of practice.) in the corner. It was cool, so several campers were bellied up to the bar, keeping the German proprietor company. I saw an add on the bulletin board for a massage, borrowed her phone, made an appointment for the morning, and hit the hay early
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 22.50e for one night in (S)Calp Fuel: 55e for 60l at 93165km for 507clicks since last tank Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 1.5e Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 93441
Thursday November 24th
Mojacar, Spain: Headed out for my massage this morning, stopped at a great bridge I had crossed on my way here, and snapped a shot. I wanted one when I came by first, but the traffic was too bad to stop at the time.
For the past couple weeks my neck had been killing
me. Surely a combo of driving a lot, and lack of exercise, but
regardless of the reasons, I felt a
As I pulled into Centro el Molino, AKA el Molino de la Higuera...the watermill by the fig tree...a centuries old meeting, and trade, location, Beth was there to welcome me to our 09:15 appointment.
I really needed a great massage, and got it, in a very comfortable local.
Centro el Molino is sort of a hippie sanctuary, and great for people who need to slow down and relax while traveling the world...or whatever else they may be doing at the time. Nature abounds on the ground situated above the river, yet still within the walls of the canyon, surrounded by olive, almond, pomegranate, fig, and orange trees, intermixed with eucalyptus, rosemary and thyme. Not on-line (go figure!) but the number is 0034 9 50 528930.
After an hour+ massage, I wandered back for breakfast, filled up my water jugs at the town spring, and then hit the beach for a swim and some reading in a quiet hike-to cove.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: -- Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 5 Supplies: 3 Misc: 40 for massage Odometer: ???
Friday November 25th
Granada, Espana: It's nice when you can spend several hours, till about 3am, with someone, talking world politics, sports, firewood, camping, women, and numerous other important topics without bothering to introduce yourselves.
After my massage, some beach time, a great read, and some recon regarding rough camping, I headed home to do up a BBQ. A Kiwi a few sites down came by and joined me, while his wife read a book, and then tried to sleep, though our babblings. By midnight, we had burned through my entire bag of kindling, meant to last another few weeks, my whole bag of charcoal, and a couple bottles of wine. About that time, the Kiwi, deciding it was a good idea to mix drinks and promptly produced his bottle of 100 proof scotch. Game over... He also went on a scavenger hunt and continued producing items to toss on the fire. "Hey, if it's not nailed down", he was saying...
This morning he sheepishly wandered over to my camp, and mentioned that his wife was NOT impressed with him, nor me, by default.
We both slunk out of camp, heading in opposite directions. Me, for Granada, and a meeting with Jackie and Emma, friends of Arden, who were supposedly in town.
The wind was extreme, as witnessed by the numerous lenticulars, the shaking of the moho, and blowing dust. The temps were dropping, and the snow level was falling, as well. For a moment I forgot why I was heading from this great coastal area for the cold, high terrain, of the Sierra Nevada, and then remembered that Arden said I HAD TO meet Jackie and buy her a drink.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 38.52 for two nights in Mojacar Fuel: 61l, 56e, 93663km, for 498driven Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 93738
Granada, Espana: I got to bed early last, and slept in late this morning. It felt great to catch up on sleep on a cold, rainy night, as I was tucked away in my alcove, heated by Espana 220. If it weren't for the guy out sweeping leaves off the central campground access drive, I would have slumbered past the 09:00 wake up.
This morning,
after a terrific refrigerator omelet (an egg tossed
with whatever was about to go off), and a shower, I tried to give Emma
another call. Something
Oh well, maybe I will just happen into them on the streets of Granada...Ok, slim chance, but there is always a bit of hope. I caught the bus into town and started walking around the same streets Don, Marty, Rich, Denton, and I walked around a few years ago while on a paragliding trip. The last time, it was so hot we could barley move, but today it is bitter cold.
As I was walking around, I saw a sign saying EMA, and took a shot, assuming it was about as close to meeting up with the girls as I was going to get. Once at Plaza Nueva, I gave one last attempt to call which was not an easy task given that three of the four pay phones were out of order. I did manage to get through though, for about 20 seconds. The phone died just before we could choose a meeting location. As I was trying again, some young American and English women rushed up needing to make a quick call. Apparently their cell phone ran out of credit as they were talking to someone, and they wanted to quickly try and call him back before he got too far away from the phone booth he just called from. Hmmm...I was thinking that this was sounding strangely familiar, when Emma asked, "You wouldn't happen to be Mike, would you?"
First things first, I was starving, and did promise to buy them a drink, so we headed to a tapas bar where Emma insisted on getting the sangrias, if I was going to buy lunch. After she paid the 6e for three sangrias, I tired to order some of the little sandwiches I noticed everyone eating, and found out they come with the drinks! So, Emma had just bought us all lunch and drinks! :-)
Since they had been in town a while, and knew the lay of the land, they played tour guide and led me through Albacian, the old part of the city crowded with little shops that had a distinct Moroccan flair. After that, it was a nice hike up to Mirador de San Nicolas, for some great views of the city, and then a bit of route finding over to the Alhambra and through some nice gardens.
We had talked about hooking up after ten tonight for a bit of night life, but it was pouring down rain by 20:00, so I stayed in camp...doubting they would be any more up for walking around in the rain than I.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: -- Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 7 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 93738
Sunday November 27th
Granada, Espana: Wandered into town today for a great little/free guitar concert at the Granada Archeological museum and then cruised up to the Alhambra, for the third time in this life. Tapas for dinner and then home early to crash, as I am blasting for the coast, and warmth, in the morning. I forgot to bring Emma's number, so was unable to call the girls. So much for meeting on Sunday. :-/
Camp Fee from prior night/s: -- Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 6+? Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 93738
Monday November 28th
Mojacar Playa, Espana: After cleaning the moho, and doing the tanks, 323 took me south from Granada to the coast. In search of solitude, I thoroughly did Cabo de Gato Nature Park, including the point, San Jose, and every back-road in-between. No great joy in finding a rough camp, or even standard campsite...so I drove around the park, and headed back to Mojacar Playa.
From E15, I cut off on 341 to the coast via Carboneras and finally arrived, after dark, back in Mojacar. I camped next to a large tower/ruins near the restaurant and pub I checked out the last time in town. They allow free camping in their parking lot, but I was happier sliding down the coast several hundred meters for a better view. I burned up some hash, read a bit, and crashed.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 49e for three nights Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 20 Supplies: 3 Misc: 0 Odometer: 94077
Tuesday November 29th
Mojacar Playa, Espana: Another great nights sleep, despite the rig that pulled in next to me last night.
This morning I noticed from his plates that he was from Great Britain, so I said hello as we both stepped out of our respective mohos together. He sort of grunted at me in a forced acknowledgement to my existence. Not sure what I did to piss him off, but he sure seems like a grumpy old bastard to me. Heck, maybe I took his favorite parking spot before he got to it?
"You sound like an American," he said.
"Yea, I am," I said.
"Hmmm...your plates show you are from Germany."
"Oh yea, well an American (US American) is not able to register a vehicle in Europe, so one of my friends in Stuttgart did it for me."
"Ahhh, that makes sense," he said. "Grumpy (I forget his real name, but his friend surely mentioned it at least once) doesn't like German's so that is one of the reasons he is a little off." Grumpy was there listening to the whole conversation, with no comment other than an occasional grunt.
I had been planning on walking into town from here, and then spending a few nights, but swapped gears and drove. I hit a British grocery store and got five paperbacks...only 4.20e/per, and some grocery items. Yea, I know...as I was walking through the door, I too thought I was nuts for actually wanting British Food in Spain!!!
After the shopping spree, I hit the beach nearer town with about five other mohos and chatted with my neighbor. Nice guy, a Brit, and one who loved telling me all about mohoingit...esspecially once he found out I was new. Marked my map for some other nice rough camps in Portugal, and also gave me specific directions to a place I can fill my gas bottle just over the border. I have been unable to find anywhere in Spain that will fill my propane!
He also mentioned that it looks like my rear leaf springs are shot, and I may want to get them looked at since I am riding so high in front. I do sort of remember peeling out a bit going up the gravel driveway after my massage the other day. Drat. Maybe this is covered in my one-year warrantee?
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 13 Supplies: 25 Misc: 0 Odometer: 94102
Wednesday November 30th
Mojacar Playa, Espana: I was up at 05:00 today for a bit of reading, breakfast, and a nice hot shower.
Once the sun started to come up, I managed a photo
or two, and then
a walk into town. After another massage at the local Harmony Gym, I
picked up some more wine, blew 6e on lunch, and 54e on food/wine as
In addition to finding a great Rioja, I am also looking for a great deal (cheap) on a functioning bike. Not a lot of joy on either for today.
I really like the rough camp location I am at. Very close to town, very secure, and a very friendly/helpful atmosphere. This is also very near the beach I was swimming at a few days ago...prior to my trip to Granada...so I think I will hang out a while.
Also met a couple of Scotts in a blue van who are currently in a motel, but trying to rough camp-it periodically, while their new home up the road gets built. There are TONS of Brits living, or about to live, in this area.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 60e Supplies: 0 Misc: 50 massage Odometer: 94102
Thursday December 1st
Finding a place to dump tanks is sometimes difficult, they all say. Especially if you adamantly refuse to pay for a campground like these guys. So, why fill up the black water tank with a bunch of water when you don't have to? I think I will just stick to my easy habit of taking a walk to the bushes.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 15 Supplies: 11e water hose and 23 for a chair. Misc: 0 Odometer: 94133
Friday December 2nd
Mojacar Playa, Espana: Early this morning (03:46) I woke up to a car prowling through the beach parking lot. I watched them, ready to jump out of bed and hit the horn, which is the rough camp alarm system that brings every camper out of his rig in a heartbeat, but they finally drove off. In a hurry. I was thinking that maybe some other camper scared them off, but then their police lights came on as they rushed down the road.
Nice to see the police periodically looking after us.
Much later in the morning, I got up and drove down to the Friday market in Garrucha where I managed to pick up a few veggies for the weekend. It was very windy with a couple of the awnings lifting off like a sail/wing. Also finally went out to explore a couple of the local bars with the Scott (Drat, I can not for the life of me remember his, or his wife's, name). It was almost too much fun! :-)
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 20 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 94155
Saturday December 3rd
Faro de Mesa Roldan, Near Cabonara, Espana: I have been wanting to do a bbq for a while now, but have not seen any of the rough campers doing one. Not wanting to cause a stir, that may get us all kicked out, I decided to drive a few clicks down a dirt road to another beach. This beach is much more attractive than the one I am at, but no one is camping here because it is quite a bit farther from town. It also is a very scenic drive along the rugged coast and points sporting ancient towers.
In the late afternoon, I headed back to my typical camp, planning to do some laundry and snag a shower, but as I was arriving the police pulled in and told us all we had to move along. During the day LOTS of other mohos arrived...possibly because of the couple of bank holidays next week.
Before going much distance I needed diesel, so planned on meeting the Scotts in the van just down the road at the little restaurant/pub rough camp, after I filled up. By the time I got there, it was closed, and the Scotts were no where to be seen. I finally found a nice hill top location near Cabonara by a light house.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 55e for 61l at 94184km for 521 since last tank Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 4 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 94184
Sunday December 4th
Almerimar, Espana: Great place to rough/free/wild camp last night. Definitely worth a mark on the map. Quiet, dark, level, scenic, and more. The only thing it was missing were other campers and I think the safety is higher with someone else around. Anyway, I headed back toward civilization and then west to Almerimar, where I ran into Dave and June again at a large beach side lot with 20 other mohos already parked up. There was also water, a waste water dump, and periodic police patrols. Not nearly as nice as last nights spot, but figure it will do for one night.
Found a cracked pipe under my kitchen sink. There
had been some leakage in the past, but the quantity of water
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 94357
Monday December 5th Almerimar, Espana: Tore apart the plumbing and then went shopping for parts with Dave...after this former plumber and mechanical engineer assessed the situation. June tossing me a smile as we headed off to my moho, leaving her peacefully with her book. Hope to put it all together in the morning.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 6 Supplies: 7 for plumbing Misc: 0 Odometer: 94395
Almerimar, Espana: Ok views of the Sierra Nevada range from camp this morning. Regardless of being camped on a parking lot, the area is fairly nice...with beach-side showers, bike path (I still need a BIKE!), and walking path along the coast. Nice.
So, I did the plumbing up and it would not drain.
Took it all apart and re-did it. Still would not drain. Must be an air
lock, I concluded,
the problem, and my thought on what was causing it. He concurred. We drove over to the dump site, opened the gray water valve, and the sink is now working perfectly. Yea!
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 94396
Almerimar, Espana: Last night I mentioned to Dave that I was going to head off to the stores for a bit of searching and shopping. He mentioned that he would be game if I wanted the company...I was in the process of battening down the hatches for drive-mode, when he showed up. Bright eyed and bushy tailed.
We hit a big hardware store first. Great fun, and we easily killed an hour wandering around. The three hardware, and one boat, store we cruised two days ago was just not enough!
In some big ol' grocery store, I finally found my bike. Only 160e and it is complete with rack, lights, and kickstand. We spent the rest of the afternoon tuning it, and then I snagged a few miles on the seat.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 70e Supplies: 170 for bike, pump, etc. Misc: 0 Odometer: 94423
Thursday December 8th
Calahonda, Espana: So I was just planning on one night here, and have now been here four. Time flies when your having fun, working on the plumbing, and/or bicycle assembly.
Definitely time to move on and see some more of Espana!
First stop was just up the road at Fortalezas Costeras...an old fortification, now a museum, complete with gun and uniform replicas.
After that quick stop, it was off to a rough camp in Calahonda where I met a few interesting people but was absolutely NOT into the camp site at all. Just a bunch of mohos packed into a parking lot. All of them jockeying for the front row position where they get the most sun, in addition to praise and admiration, from their envious neighbors. Pretty town, nice beach, great harbor, but I would rather be a click west on the beach. Unfortunately that was plastered with NoMoHo signs.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 94500
Friday December 9th
Rouald, and his girlfriend Augelika, are from Holland and are on their way to Morocco for a month of relaxation. They are traveling with two dogs, that are nice enough, but bark at the drop of a hat, and will break their leash at the slightest chance to taste a bit o' cat.
Their leaky shower also pissed someone off to the point of them deciding to leave after Rouald explained that they need to just chill out at this early hour in the morning. Interesting dynamics in the MoHo world. About the same as any other job, sport, school, bar, or other grouping of people.
The Moho's were door to door,
I was headed for the rough camp in La Herradura, just past Almuncar, where I tried to say hi to Dirk and Tracy at The Hotel California, whom I met a few years back on a paragliding adventure with some friends, but they were out, and I was not waiting past the 45 min I took for lunch in their parking lot. Wound up making a long drive (almost 200 clicks!) to Camping Jos Jarales, just outside of Fuengrila, tossed in a load of laundry and jumped into the brown water of a warm shower. Yuck! Jumped out about as quickly, and then went to buy some some fresh water after finding that the entire region is under a fouled water alert.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 52e for 56l at 94659km for 575 driven on tank Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 4e Supplies: 5.60 for a front door chain Misc: 0 Odometer: 94687
Estepona, Espana: I hope Dave never finds out I blew 11.59e (with my camping card discount!) for Camping Los Jarales!
The only reason I can see, now, to visit a campsite is to top off the water tanks, enjoy several long, hot, showers in a normal sized stall, and do laundry. With the water in this place being not-quite-shit-brown, I accomplished none of my goals. Such is life.
I pulled out with about a half a tank of fresh water, and about 20 liters of fresh/drinking bottled water, which I have gotten in the habit of storing for a rainy, or dry, day.
Stopped into a few large stores in search of a new fluorescent light bulb, a couple other supplies, and a chunk of bread for the weekend.
Using Dave's directions, I found the Estepona rough camp (the large dirt/gravel parking lot, just SW of the paved parking lot at the main port...which is a tad SW of the old-town) and pulled in next to about three others before heading out for a bike ride around town, where I stopped into the local Irish Pub and met a fun group of people.
Back for dinner, a quick wash, and I am out of here to explore the night life!
Was planning on meeting up with the same group in the old town, but never made it that far. Wound up hitting several bars near the port, for food, drinks, and dance lessons till 04:00.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 11.59e (a bargain at a tenth the price!) Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 30--out on the town Supplies: 20e for door alarm and bike lock (10 each) Misc: 0 Odometer: 94740
Sunday December 11th
Estepona, Espana: Wandered around the Sunday market, tried to catch up on the computer, after not up/downloading for a while, read, vegged out, and crashed early.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 2e on internet Odometer: 94740
Estepona Espana: Biked through the old town, grabbed some tapas and Rijoa off the square and basically lazed the day away. Feels like I am retired! Or at least tired. Perhaps both?
Saw a couple of great sand sculptures, despite the time of year. Also, one or two sun-bathers were out and about. It was warm to me, but there were a few people in winter jackets!!!
My spot near the harbor is nice, but I keep looking
at the ridge-line to the north. It has to be flyable, but the wind is
strong, I have heard nothing about the
I would not mind a flight.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 6e tapas con Rijoa for lunch Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 94740
Tarifa, Espana:
Headed out of Dodge this morning, and saw lots of interesting bridges, sights, windmills, and panoramic views of Africa...sunsets and MORE! Great day of driving! Less than 100 clicks! It was very relaxing.
Passed Gibraltar, which I explored a few years back with a friend of mine, and also passed some great views of Africa while rounding Point del Cabrito, the southern most point of European Spain, just past Algecerias. Africa is so close and, just like my last time to Spain, I am considering a quick trip across the straits for some lunch...and maybe a visit with Jamuall, an acquaintance from my last trip. I need to consider this.
In the meantime, I rolled into Tarifa, on the southern end of Iberia, did some grocery shopping, wandered around town, and then headed out for the windsurfing beaches, and views of the eastern Atlantic, to the north of town. Life is grand, and I am happy to be in the warmth of Iberia for the winter. I need toremember to apply sun block. For my lips, especially...regardless of the low (ish) sun angle.
Wandered by a great beach with all kinds of NoMoHo signs...yet many were camped up. Asked a bunch of Brits if it was cool to camp, and they said "No Prob". They are heading out to Africa early in the am.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 18 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 94854
Wednesday December 14th
Tarifa, Espana: I needed to do a mail call and collect a bit of paperwork for my Hymer, so am spending the night at Camping Paloma where Christl from Flight Design mailed it off to.
Camping Paloma is only a few clicks away from the beach with the local rough camp so, shortly after a great sunrise, under clouds threatening a drop of rain, I arrived and started taking advantage of the place. I was able to do laundry, dishes, clean the rig, do the tanks, and still have time for a late afternoon bbq and a long hot shower, or two.
Regarding my package...UPS attempted a delivery on Tuesday, but were told I was not there since my reservation was for Wed. I had Marco call them and was assured they would re-attempt the delivery either later today, or on Thursday morning. GREAT! :-)
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 6e for two loads of wash Odometer: 94861
Thursday December 15th
By noon I went to check on my mail. UPS had still not arrived. The other guy working there (not Marco) called UPS again. No prob, the envelope will be dropped off this afternoon. I hit a nearby beach to inquire about kite surfing lessons, vegged out, and returned to get my envelope by 18:00. No envelope. We called again, and now they have no record of it. The guys at Camping Paloma managed to get an English speaking person on the phone for me (from the main Madrid office) who told me I needed to get her a tracking number for her to find it.
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vineyard.
At least the harvest is done at this stage, and, awe, they are mostly
whites anyway.
and
then 260 at the border to Espana. My last village in France, Cerbere,
had the best views I have ever seen from a cemetery. If I have to die,
and someone insists on not letting me just rot, or letting a tiger eat
me, then this is the place I would enjoy wasting space. Hard to
believe some US developer has not come in with the big bucks, and
transplanted
it, yet.
village,
still unspoiled by tourists like me.
Sant Pere Pescador,
Espana:
Met up with a bunch of new people yesterday after arriving at
Thursday November 17th
chippings,
brushings, and what not, I have seen to date. This is a must see for any trip to
Espana, and, realizing it is tucked away on Costa Brava, and perhaps far
from the typical tourist path, I still feel this way.
"Without
an audience, without the presence of spectators, these jewels would not
fulfill the function for which they came into being. The viewer, then,
is the ultimate artist." 
The
train dropped me right in the heart of the action at Placa Catalunya
with some nice fountains, lazing people and enough pigeons to go around
for everyone. One little girl, in particular, was especially loved as
her grandmother would dole out some rice to her periodically, they would
swarm, and she would squeal.
Some
guy had three cups with a marble under one of them. He shuffled them
around, and pretty much "accidentally" wound up showing everyone where
the marble was, and the guy betting he could find it, always stepped on,
chose, the wrong one. The performer would then ask some other person in
the crowd if they knew where it was. Of course they did, everyone did!
Chose not to stick around to find out, but I would wager that once a
real tourist decided to play, it would be much more difficult finding
the marble.
The
'02 Arribeno Crianza again had a similar velvety cork, blue cheese
initially on the nose, rich color, yet not as dark as the Cosecha, but a
rich mouth feel. Round two, after 30 min, and the blue
is gone. I still don't like stinky blue, but if I drink enough Rioja
(area) wines my tastes may change. A bit more fruit showing through, and smoke, and charred
meat....DAMN, dinners on fire.
massage
would help clear it up a bit.
Saturday
November 26th
was
wrong with the phone as I kept getting the same recording telling me the
party could not be reached at this time.
As
I was dismissing grumpy, another neighbor, grumpy's friend, and another
Brit, camping in a nearby rig approached and gave me a friendly hello.
I
said, "hmmmm," but was thinking I
don't like people who judge an entire race of people by some experience
he may, or may not, have had with a limited few. If I did as he did he
does, I would have to assume all Brits are ignorant racists! I don't, and they aren't. In
fact I have not met one person on this trip I didn't care for, until
this morning. I think his friend was an alright guy, but Grumpy is an
ass.
I
continued my search for a great Rioja...
Mojacar Playa, Espana:
Yet another day vegging out on the beach. Met Ken, a friend of Dave's,
who is also very helpful! Gave
me even more tips on moho's, but my favorite was, "Pee in a bucket, and
chuck it." 
I put down the drain while doing laundry, really made a mess. Will need
to work on fixing it in the morning before I leave...IF I can find a
hardware store.
Tuesday
December 6th
as
I finished the book I was reading. Once Dave wandered down to my camp, I
mentioned
Wednesday December 7th
Fuengirola, Espana:
All of the men in the encampment were offering advice to some poor guy
with his hood open...probably just checking the oil...while his wife too
dithered. I was amused, but never offered any advice. Instead, I watched
one
of my coolest neighbors, and one of the most controversial, take his dog
for a ride around the lot on his mini-bike.
and
I could barely stand it. Decided I would stay another night if I could
find a hardware store and an internet cafe. I found neither so headed
down the road in the late morning.
Saturday December
10th
I
found the bread and also a cool little door alarm that will irritate the
heck out of you if a door is opened. For rough camping solo, I feel the
10e was a good investment.
Monday December 12th
area,
and I see no pilots taking advantage of the the days...
Tuesday December 13th
Tarifa, Espana:
Moved slowly this morning to take advantage of the 220 to both my heater
and my fridge and, of course, another long hot shower! I also needed to
pause as the camp grass trimmers, lawn mowers, and fertilizing units,
wandered through my pitch...