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Where's Mike? Section 15: Crete 2006
Click here to see Section 14: To Crete via the Peloponnese
Near Kasteli-Kissamos, Greece: Moving fast to warmer climes, I needed to skip a quite scenic section of Peloponnese (SSE finger) in order to get to Gythio on time for my ferry to Crete. The half I did see ABSOLUTELY dictates a return, and that return will be easy when I dock here again on my return from Crete.
Ferry prices to/from Crete are almost as much as from Venice to Patras!!!
The snow covered mountains still boggle a mind, set with pre-conceived notions of Greece.
Late arrival (~22:00) in Kasteli-Kissamos on Crete...will sort out a plan of attack in the morning.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 56e for 60l at 101950/515km Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 235e RT ferry for Crete Odometer: 101966
Paleochora, Greece: Another scenic drive from Kasteli-Kissamos on the north coast, through the mountains, to Paleochora on the south coast. Short, but sweet.
Paleochora is a
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 12 Supplies: 6 Misc: 0 Odometer: 102063
Paleochora, Greece: There is a nice 15K hike, from Palechora to Sougia, forecast to take six hours one way from the trail-head which is 6km east of town.
Regardless of the high overcast, which did make for cooler hiking, the views of the coast were good, and, along the way, the trail goes through Lissos, an Ancient sanctuary to Asclepius and current archeological dig site. Interesting to see the old baths, and tile-work on the floor.
The exit trail into Sougia is through a spectacular canyon...steep walled, and dripping with springs.
The hike is great, but if you do it off-season, on a Sunday, you may find the bus that was supposed to take you home, is not running and you have to do the hike as a round-trip.
From the trail head, the round trip, including ~2K accumulated vertical each way, took seven hours. The additional 12K, to and from my MoHo, made for a total of 42K & 9.5 hours of pure ass whippin'.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 102063
Sougia, Greece: Small, one-lane, twisty, back-roads (way too numerous/small for a 1:500,000 map) with sheer drops for hundreds of feet, eventually delivered me to Sougia, where I had hiked to the day prior. I liked it enough then to decide on spending at least a night here.
With the morning wind dying out, the morning haze burning off, and the afternoon sunlight reflecting off the Libyan Sea...it can get downright HOT in Greece; made for a perfect afternoon to work on a case of skin cancer, read a book, and chat with the inevitable Auzzies.
No campsites in Sougia, but the east end of the pebbled beach is a great rough-camp and only a two minute walk into town.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 10 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 102100
Hora Sfakion, Greece: Left the Sougia for a quick drive past the Samaria Gorge.
I knew the gorge was closed for hiking in March, but I wanted to see the trailhead, confirm the mid-April opening time with the park rangers (opening time varies depending on the snow pack, and this year the mountains are still white), and it was not far out of my way...regardless.
From what little I was able to see, I am really looking forward to this 18km wilderness (or as close as it gets in Europe) hike.
Also, I just can't get over how beautiful, and mountainous, Crete is! If you are into the outdoors, the southern part of Crete is a must-see.
Off to Chania on the north coast to check out some Minoan ruins dating from 3000 BC and destroyed in 1450 BC with the colossal eruption of Santorini. Many historians think that this is the one cataclysmic event that finally destroyed the entire Minoan civilization.
The old harbor is also OK, and it is interesting how they have poured lots of money into the old buildings, and fortifications, and even have converted some of them to new offices and condos. However, as Crete's, supposedly, most attractive city, I was unimpressed.
Headed back to the South coast to spend the night in Hora Sfakion with a few fellow travelers I had met.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 31e for 32l at 102228/278km Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 8e Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 102268
Wednesday March 22nd
An uneventful start for the first click, but then it quickly turns into steep canyon walls, sometime no more than a couple meters apart, wild flowers growing out of every crevasse, and only a few people enjoying it at this time of year.
To do it again, I would hike up from Komitades till the the steep canyons end, about a click from the Imbros, and then round-trip-it back down. Get a bit more exercise and save the 5e bus trip, or 15e taxi ride which I did, verses waiting for the afternoon bus.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 15e for taxi to trailhead Odometer: 102268
Thursday March 23rd
Plakias, Greece:
The 1371 Venetian Frangokastelo was rumored to be magnificent, but I
found it to be mostly a yawn. Farther east, Plakias is a nice little
sea-side village with numerous hiking trails all around
the area. The hour round-trip trail up to Myrthios is great for panoramic views of the bay. A bit of interesting night-life too (in Plakias). Raki seems to be the preferred drink over Ouzo...cheap, but foul in every sense of the word, and I am considering my wisdom in purchasing a small local bottle of it a few days ago. The unopened bottle may need to remain with my MoHo upon sale...when that time comes.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 15e Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 102336
Friday March 24th
Aghia Galini, Greece: Visited Kato and Piso Preveli during an incredible downpour. The monks even invited me inside the chapel during the worst of of. They aren't overly verbose, but seem nice enough.
Preveli is a monastery high on the cliffs overlooking the Libyan sea. A great lookout point for lightning watching today, in addition to being a major rebellion stronghold, and center of resistance during in the war against Turkish rule. Again, in WWII, many allied soldiers were harbored here until they could escape to Egypt. The Germans didn't much care for that, so they enjoyed a little plunder-fest in order to teach the Abbot a lesson. The museum houses a candelabra presented by thankful British soldiers after the war.
After Preveli, I swung through Spili, a sort of interesting mountain town. Worth a quick stop to see the town fountain, but I saw little else of interest. Noticed Aghia Galini on the map, but had not heard anything about the town, so swung in to the port in the attempt to find a local scene. Nice harbor town, with dramatic mountain and sea views. Enjoyed the setting sun and a couple bottles of vino on the pier, with three Greeks and a German before wandering out to view the local wildlife.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 50e Supplies: 0 Misc: 6e internet!!! Odometer: 102409
Saturday March 25th
Koutsounari, Greece: Matala is said to have a great beach, but it just a fine, brown, sand, next to a kind of disgusting tourist-trap of a town. Impossible to walk down the street in peace, as every shop-owner is screaming for business.
The ancient Roman tombs carved in the side of the cliffs on the north end of the beach are interesting enough to warrant a visit. Back in the 60's a bunch of hippies turned them into a, sort of, condo complex until the police were finally able, after years of free-livin', to evict the last of them.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 1.5 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 102594
Kato Zakros, Greece: The beautiful bay, home to the ancient Zakros, another of the Minoan complexes, makes it easy to understand building here.
The site is not well preserved, and parts of it are now flooding as the water level rises on the low coastal plain it was build upon. It used to be a major port, however.
The village of Kato Zakros is sleepy, but is lucky
enough to get the same views the Minoans had thousands of years ago, as
am, I since I plan on rough camping on the beach with a couple of
The locals seem very nice, and not used to seeing many visitors.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 102674
Monday March 27th
Vai, Greece: There is a pleasant hike from Kato Zakros to Zakros that takes about two hours, round-trip. It is part of the E4 (cross Europe) trail I have been seeing all over Crete.
The canyon is called Dead Gorge as a result of the
numerous natural caves which were used as tombs in ancient times. Today,
the valley is fenced off (keeps
The walk made for a nice start to the morning before heading out toward Vai, and, hopefully, some good viewing for Wednesdays full eclipse.
Vai is simply a beautiful cove on the NE corner of Crete. A dive center, restaurant, and beach-side bar are the only structures around and are abandoned at night, and all winter. The Vai beach and palm forest, in addition to the little peninsula it all sits on, will be good place to explore for a couple of days.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 12e Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 102723
Tuesday March 28th
Vai, Greece: Sticking close to the eastern edge of Crete for viewing the greatest percentage of the eclipse I can afford. Wont be whole, but close. As I fueled up, the gas station owner loaned me his welding mask for a few days when I asked where I could get one. No deposit, no name, no passport...just drop it by the next time you come through town. Nice to be in Greece.
Checked out some nice beaches, ports, harbors, dive sites and wind surfing hot spots.
Some high cirrus coming in tonight tonight...yikes! This does not bode well for the eclipse viewing, but perhaps any system may hold off for a day.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 66e, 65l, 102737/508km Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 3e for internet Odometer: 102762
Wednesday March 29th
Vai, Greece: It was a great sunrise, with only a small amount of thin cirrus, that mostly burned off by the mid-day eclipse. My beat up old Optio 550, complete with scratched lens and malfunctioning operator, did a miserable job capturing a half-way decent shot of the sun, but it was great watching it through the loaner welding mask.
The orangeish glow is quite strange as it casts it's tinted shadows over the land and seascape.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 102762
Thursday March 30th
Mochlos, Greece: So, eastern Crete is more what most pre-conceived notions of Greece are. Eastern Crete is lower laying, rockier, and more desert-like than the southern, or central, portions of Greece seen thus far.
Those notions fade, again, as you head west along and/or near the northern coastline.
Sitia is a great little city, and one that would most likely deserve a couple of days to fully explore if the free/rough/wild camping were a touch easier... A very crowded port area, where typically free camping is the easiest, helped me decide to move on to greener fields.
From Sitia to Mochlos, the coastline is incredibly rugged, and worth the view.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 46e Supplies: 0 Misc: 4e for Ouzo gift Odometer: 102858
Agios Nikolaos, Greece: Arrived to lots of road destruction, and the typical work crews. Staying at the marina.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 25e Supplies: 0 Misc: 6e for parking Odometer: 102896
Saturday April 1st
Agios Nikolaos, Greece: Bike, Veg, and chore day
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 6e for parking Odometer: 102896
Sunday April 2nd
Elouda, Greece: Just out of the shower with someone knocking on the door. The nice Greek couple I met on the Peloponnese were driving by, recognized my rig and stopped by for a visit....bearing gifts of sweet bread and a local candy-like gorp. The Greek hospitality is second to none, in my experience.
After a quick reunion on the docks of the marina (Great place to stay, FYI) I headed a few clicks north to the pretty village of Elouda near Spinalonga Island.
The town at night was in a party mood at it prepared for the start of the tourist season, which is essentially upon them.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 25e Supplies: 0 Misc: 6e parking, 3e internet Odometer: 102919
Elouda, Greece: There is a great little bike ride, or walk, of only about 15k round trip, to Plaka just north of Elouda. Level for the most part, and some good views of Spinalonga Island.
Very quiet by day, with it's sleepy marina, and the occasional fishing boat coming or going, but by night, Elouda seems to be, again, in the party-hardy mood. I wound up hitting all five of the open Tavernas to create a find dinner and have a few glasses of wine. Amazing how inexpensive things are in Greece.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 7e Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 102919
Tuesday April 4th
Tzermiado (on the Lasithi Platau), Greece: The storm last night, and it's remnants this morning, must have kept most people from venturing out today. It made for a quite boat trip (only two others...Belgian school teachers) over to see Spinalonga Island.
Spinalonga is another impressive fortress built by the Venetians to protect, what was then, a vital harbor. Another interesting tidbit of history is that the island was used as a leper colony since 1953, and has been pretty much uninhabited since then.
An open grave cemetery, descriptive displays, and lots of architecture await.
My advice would be to pass on Kritsa, but the dig just outside of town, Lato, is worth the wander. I had heard from several people that the gates are often closed so everyone just hops the fence. I also found the gate closed, but, as they say, when on Crete, do as the Cretans, so I too hopped the fence.
After a wander around Lato, heading out of this area for the Lasithi Plateau is in order.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 41 Supplies: 0 Misc: 12e boat trip and entrance to Spinalonga Island Odometer: 103000
Wednesday April 5th
Iraklion, Greece: The Dikteon Cave, Rhea's hiding place for her son Zeus, from his child gobbling father, Cronos, is pretty cool. Many of the stalactites and stalagmites have been damaged over the years, but it is still worthwhile....also, the sweeping views of the Lasithi Plateau from the hike up/down are quite nice.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 10 Supplies: 0 Misc: 4e cave Odometer: 103081
Thursday April 6th
Iraklion, Greece: Nice to wander, visit stores, run into old friends, and ck out the Archeological Museum. The Venetian Fort/Harbor is good too.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 11 Supplies: 0 Misc: 6e museum, 13e books. Odometer: 103081
Friday April 7th
Iraklion, Greece:
Crete periodically gets hit with Northern Africa dust that reduces
visibility, deposits dust in/on everything, and irritates the eyes. When
this incredibly strong (I thought the MoHo was going to blow over!)
southerly bears down, most people just baton down
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 7 Supplies: 0 Misc: 3e on net Odometer: 103081
Saturday April 8th
A backyard in Pano Archanes, Greece: A bit of a road trip into the mountains for a back yard barbie With Vera, Britta, Dany, and Joanis (met them on the south side of Crete, and then ran into Britta and Vera a couple days ago). Great food and hospitality...we even searched around in Dany's cellar for a while and he wound up digging out a 1976 Gau-Bickelheimer Kapelle Spatlese. Incredibly nice! Apricot and mild orange zest on the nose, fruity, verses too sweet, on the palate with a full mouth feel and medium finish. A perfect piece of candy for desert!
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 40e for 41.3l at 103085/349km Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 50.5e Supplies: 0 Misc: 20e for 27.8l of GPL (over filled tank?) Odometer: 103206
Sunday April 9th
Rethymno, Greece: Left Pano Archanes with a full stomach and a nice gift of an '02 Wingut Clauer Kabinett Trocken Riesling from Heidelberg, ala Dany and juicer ala Vera. Interesting how the Greek culture encourages invitations into their home, the offering of food, the opening of a 30 year old bottle of wine, a place to stay/park, and, after all that, you still leave in the morning with GIFTS! Although Joanis is the only Greek out of the four, the Germans have picked up the traditions quite well.
Off to Knossos:
Even though Arthur Evans (not the archaeologist who discovered Knossos, but the one who did the excavation) may have gotten a bit imaginative in his partial reconstruction, you can still find lots here that is untouched by his creative thinking. That said, I found any lack of accuracy was not too distracting for me, and it was sort of fun to see someone's visualization of the capital of Minoan Crete.
Knossos is said to have the first flush water closet (for the queen!) but that section has been closed off for a while due to damage being caused by foot traffic. Even though, any civil engineer-type would have a field day exploring the vast and intricate drainage system. The road too, which extended to the coast in it's day, and is still partially visible/detectable along it's route, is pretty cool as well.
Huge pots, called pithoi, were also discovered and are up to six feet high! They were used for storage of food, water, oil, and wine.
I didn't see any "un-retouched" frescos, but the painted pillars and frescos that have been constructed (re-constructed?) give a good idea of what things may have looked like. Definitely worth a few hours of exploring if you are in the area.
From Iraklion to Rethymno the drive is mostly on the new national road and offers a few nice views and lots of opportunities to buy oranges and honey. Both are the best I have ever had! As you pull off the road at one of the stands, ancient women cut into a fresh orange and offer you a taste. Then pour some incredible honey onto your fingers and let you taste that. The honey has a slight orange blossom flavor and is really phenomenal. The oranges are what I once would have considered ugly, with their spotted, wrinkled skins and uneven shapes and sizes, but they are very sweet and juicy. Lots of babies too.
Enjoy that drive because, as far as I can tell from
my approach, Rethymno is a great place only if you enjoy mediocre, and
sort of dirty, beaches
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 6e Knossos entry Odometer: 103317
Monday April 10th
Rethymno, Greece: I guess it just takes all day to get an oil change in Europe. Same problem I had with my Volvo last year. However, it is even worse when, after they drain the oil and are ready to put new filters back on the rig, they inform you that they don't have them. For an additional cost, the filters (oil and air) can be had by the next afternoon. Pardon my Greek, but F... me!
The beach I was not thrilled about last night, was a necessary sanctuary from insanity this late afternoon. Hot sun, a good book, and lots of topless Northern European women took my mind off the oil change.
Oh, all of these tourists worshiping the sun on the mediocre beach in front of their cheap hotels, tend to make for fun evenings out. They only have a week, so it does not matter if it is a Friday night or a Monday night, they NEED to party. And party they do...
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 26e Supplies: 0 Misc: 137e oil change Odometer: 103344
Tuesday April 11th
Rethymno, Greece:
Walking the length of the beach in the late morning it is difficult to
believe how crowded it was in the afternoon prior. Many must still be
sleeping off hangovers. However, by late afternoon (after another trip
to Fiat) the beaches and old Venetian quarter below the fortress are
once
Again, the night-life is almost too much fun.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 19e Supplies: 0 Misc: 65 spa/masg, 44e oil change (finished!) Odometer: 103385
Wednesday April 12th
Rethymno, Greece: A strong southerly started up again last night, and the African dust followed this afternoon, until, thankfully a cool front pushed in from the north. Amazing to see the changes so rapidly.
Still staying in Rethymno, but moved a few clicks down the beach to check out some new sights and meet some new, interesting people. Met a bunch of Austrians on a week-long package away from the cold Alps, boring jobs, and whatever else it is they are escaping. The group is off for a few days, in the morning, to bus tour around the area.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 40 Supplies: 0 Misc: 18e books Odometer: 103388
Thursday April 13th
As far as Mo could manage on the Mt Ida road, Greece: The beach around Rethymno has continued to improve from first impression...not in it's natural beauty, but in the interesting things people do.
Left Rethymno and headed for a loop drive of the Amari Valley and a climb to the EOS hut on Mt Ida.
The road out of Kouroutes to the trailhead quickly turns into a steep gravel and dirt route quite impassable to MoHo's so a morning walk of the rest of approach will be needed.
From this high in the hills, you can see both the Cretan and Libyan sea in the daylight, and dozens of villages sparking in the Amari valley, between the two, by night.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 10e laundry Odometer: 103445
As far as Mo could manage on the Mt Ida road, Greece: Relentless rain, painful and damaging hail, and a soupy fog rolled in overnight. I now find myself stuck on the side of the mountain. Too wet, in addition to zero visibility, to hike up, and too slippery, and washed out, to try and drive down.
Periodic lifting of the fog, and cessation of the deluge, offers some nice views of Crete if you happen to be paying attention at the moment. There is even a dusting of fresh snow on the higher elevations.
The sheep and goats are hating the weather as well, and just huddle under what little protection the olive, and other, trees have to offer.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 103445
Rethymno Greece: A break in the weather gave me a my chance to drive down the mountain without another attempt at the climb. Not having a forecast, I didn't want to get stuck up there for too long, and had tentative plans to meet a new Austrian friend in Rethymno tonight. Turned out to be a nice day at the beach but still storming in the mountains.
Down to Aghia Galini for another view (it was much nicer a couple weeks ago when there were not so many crowds), and then a fast cut NW through Spili (again) and on to Rethymno for dinner with Crystal before she headed out on Sunday.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 50e Supplies: 0 Misc: 4e internet Odometer: 103530
Chaina, Greece: My last visit to Chaina was a bit disappointing as a result of driving a MoHo into the heart of the city with no map. My mistake, and as a result, I feel my first impressions were not fair.
Chaina is a very pretty little
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 18 Supplies: 0 Misc: 2e for internet Odometer: 103605
Monday April 17th
Chaina/West Beach, Greece:
A quick morning wander through town and I confirmed the bus to Omalos leaves 08:30. I plan on being
on it so I can hit opening day of the Samaria Gorge.
Also, walking the coast west of town 4-5 clicks, presents some very nice beaches. A bit more challenging to drive to them, but I managed, and was rewarded with a great swim on a perfect beach next to a level parking area already being used by a couple of nice Germans in an identical Hymer Camp.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 62e for 63l at 103620/535km Tolls: 0 Food/Drink:15e Supplies: 0 Misc: 1.5 internet Odometer: 103636
Tuesday April 18th
Loutro, Greece: Opening day for the Samaria Gorge.
The Samaria Gorge is probably one of Crete's best National Parks and is incredibly beautiful. The gorge is dotted with fresh water springs, filled with wildflowers and herbs, is home to the Samaria Ruins, is a sanctuary to a small old-growth forest loaded with cypress--yet still diverse, and has sheer rock walls reaching 1000 feet above. I highly recommend the walk for anyone visiting Crete.
Not knowing exactly what to expect on this 18km hike to the sea, I fully loaded up with Teva's for stream crossings, extra clothes, extra food, full shell, sun block, and cash (only the latter two were of use), before jumping on the bus with a bunch of other people in dirty boots and hiking attire. An hour later, our bus stopped at the trail head so that about 15 of The Ones Who Walk Away From Omalos could be the first visitors to descend into the canyon for 2006.
Along the way, I got to know most of those descending. A couple from Derbyshire who had done the hike 25 years ago and are now returning with their kids, a French couple who spoke as much English as I do French, a bunch of Germans who were slow going regardless of their walking sticks, a couple of young French women who were out front with me the majority of the time and wanting to practice their English the whole way, a young German couple with lots of blisters who soon dropped way back, and another 20+/- who entered from below and were hiking up. Whether they were planning on going the whole way, or just through the most interesting parts, I don't know.
The canyon is comprised of spectacular scenic view after spectacular scenic view...despite the morning overcast. Additionally, seeing the occasional four-footed ambulance at the first aid stations, exploring the ruins of Samaria village and abandoned churches, drinking hungrily from cool fresh water springs, and just stopping to listen, and breathe in the fresh air, make for a great day.
Even with a couple of relaxing stops along the way, the girls and I made it out of the gorge 90min prior to ferry departure, which is now the only way back to civilization without another full day of hiking. This gave just enough time for a swim and a beer as we re-lived the day. Interestingly enough, we all noted the freshness of the air...not so much as we were in the canyon, but it became obviously apparent as we exited in Old Agia Roumeli for the 2-3 click hike to the ferry. The farm smells you come to expect and ignore in an agriculturally based country hit hard after the fresh smell of spring water, herbs, flowers, and minerals of the gorge.
As we waited for the ferry to the Hora Sfakion bus station, everyone, including the blistered German couple, also appeared, yet, as we pulled away from the dock, I felt a pang of remorse at having to rush away so soon after such a great day in the canyon.
I had about a half an hour to consider this feeling prior to the ferry making a token stop in Loutro where I found myself, without a plan or toothbrush, jumping ship. Loutro has no cars, no roads, and beautifully flowered homes, so I had no choice but to check it out.
The folks from Derbyshire also offloaded here as they had pre-planned the stop, and held reservations, but I found no problem getting a cheap room, as every shop and home seems to have them.
For my entire time in Greece I have thought it to be
one of the safest countries I have ever been in. I had heard similar from various travelers, I have seen
driverless cars idling in the street for minutes, I have seen unlocked
A bit after sunset I spent about 20min on an achingly slow internet connection unsuccessfully trying to confirm my return ferry from Crete to the Peloponnese and then continued wandering the village. On my way along the sea-side walk two locals approached me and seemed to be asking if I wanted to use the internet. It was odd, but I thought nothing about it until Gwilym, the Derbyshire dad, approached me and asked if I had used the internet on the other side of the beach earlier...Well, he told me, they found my passport, with a bit of cash in it, and are holding it for me. I must have taken it out while checking my ferry tickets.
In any other place in the world, I would have dropped everything and ran to the cafe to retrieve my belongings, but instead I sat reading a good book as my waiter brought me a glass of wine and several small Greek specialties for dinner. After my meal, I wandered to another shop for a small dessert, and finally made my way to get my passport. I thanked the shop owner and then headed back to my room, where again I was informed that a passport had been found. Seems once the deed was done, news traveled through the entire village grapevine so that the American could be located and his property returned.
I have a feeling that had I been in any other country, I would be minus one passport.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 35e Supplies: 0 Misc: 6e bus, 5e Samaria entry, 4e ferry, 1e internet Odometer: 103639
Wednesday April 19th
Chaina/West Beach, Greece: Loutra was certainly a great little village to stay in and I would highly recommend it for anyone in the area. You can either hike to it from Hora Sfakion (about 2 hours of mostly level terrain along the coast) or take a ferry. Very peaceful beach for swimming, boardwalk for browsing, sights for seeing, and friendly people.
The hike from Loutra to Hora Sfakion is pretty easy, and many people just do it in flip flops. Along the way is Sweetwater Beach where potable fresh spring water gurgles out of the sand. I saw a couple of wet spots, but nothing I would plan on drinking. I think the main springs have been tapped in recent years and now all you see is a cement cap. Still, an excellent place for a couple hours of swimming and reading, and some people camp out there for weeks in the summer!
Once into Hora Sfakion I found another beach, with a Manchester family this time, for a fun swim, grabbed a beer and terrible pizza with a couple of British ex-pats, and then we all hopped on the bus to Chania for the two hour return trip.
It was great to find my unmolested MoHo was still where I left it two nights prior. As if I could expect anything but.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 18e Supplies: 0 Misc: 20e for last nights hotel, 6.2e bus Odometer: 103646
Thursday April 20th
Chania, Greece: Just enjoyed a relaxing day of swimming and then dinner at the harbor. The night time view of the old harbor, and the people watching, makes up for the poorer food quality, and higher price, of this "must do" tourist activity. The Manchester kids I was swimming with yesterday, recognized me and drug mum and dad over to say hello.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 30 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 103656
Friday April 21st
Sfinari, Greece:
Still not having my reservation for the Kissamos-Kasteli to Gythio ferry
sorted, I headed to KK to get it done. Took me a bit longer than expected on
account of my return ticket stub being missing (seems the ticket taker
on my way to Crete took my return stub as well) but the guy worked it
out and issued me new tickets for Wednesday's
ferry.
Stopped on Sunset Beach, a beautiful pebbled beach framed with rugged rocks, near Sfinari, for a glass of wine at the restaurant I am staying near, some reading, and a BBQ at a very pleasant, grassy, beach-side camping area.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 24e Supplies: 1 Misc: 0 Odometer: 103733
Saturday April 22nd
Elafonisi, Greece: Continued south along the scenic west coast road toward the Chrysoskalitissas monastery and the Elafonisi nature preserve. Regrettably (now as I finish writing this up) I skipped the monastery and went directly to the beach.
The Elafonisi nature preserve is a beautiful sandy beach area with a small (maybe two clicks by three quarters of a click in size) island that can be reached by wading 50 meters through warm shin-deep water. The place is perfect for swimming, windsurfing and bird watching.
Arriving late I just set up camp (there is some no camping signage stating camping is not allowed on the island or IN the sea, so I figured I was safe...also several other camper-vans were partaking) for the night and went to see if I could find a local church since the Easter fireworks were already going off, and any sleep tonight would surely not come until the wee hours anyway.
Since there is no real town here, the church situation was limited, but, like I have seen all over Greece, there was a small one (4X5 meters) tucked under a rock overhang in a shallow cave. Although my stance on, and appreciation for, organized religion may be questionable, seeing a Greek Orthodox Easter ceremony is well worth it. The language is impossible to understand, but, being raised Catholic helps make it easy to follow along...not that you would need to follow along at all.
At some point (midnight) all the lanterns (no electricity in this cave) were snuffed and the half dozen worshipers were in deep blackness until the priest (I guess that's what he would be called) lit a candle and proceeded to walk though the church lighting all of ours. This is the symbolization of Christ's resurrection and is the most important, and joyous (verses my Catholic emphasis on the gloom and doom of his crucifixion), part of the Greek Orthodox religion, even above and beyond that joy of Christmas.
Outside, after the service, a few of the worshipers set off some bottle rockets and fire-crackers, joining the sporadic bangs and pops already being heard through the deserted darkness.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 0 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 103782
Paleochora Greece: I would enthusiastically recommend trying to hit an Easter service for any traveler who happens to be in Greece over Easter. Perhaps even try to get into one of the many monasteries sprinkled all over the country.
Anyway, this morning I enjoyed a wade/walk out to the island and up to the old church stuck on the southern hill. Looking north to the mainland gave a good sense of the area through the spitting morning rain and Jacob's Ladders this Easter Sunday.
As the morning wore on, a couple of tour buses showed up and day trippers made their way to the island like thousands before them. I also, in my wanders, noticed a couple areas of trash. During my entire time on Crete, the attitude toward garbage never ceased to pique my interest. The Greeks just toss it out their car windows, into the bushes, on the beach, or, more commonly, don't "toss" it anywhere...they just let it magically disappear from their hands and minds and have no thought over it whatsoever.
Luckily, Elafonisi is much cleaner than in years past (really, there were just a couple of places that are not pristine), and efforts are being made every day to educate the locals (I am 99% sure it is not the tourists) regarding garbage disposal.
As I headed out of Elafonisi, and made my way Paleochora, I picked up a couple of hitchhikers enjoying the long weekend off work. Mustafa, 24, and Mortezza, 20, are Afghani's (Ahhhh, I'm thinking. Didn't we recently invade your country? Or was that Burma?) that have come to work the fields of Crete. 25 euros a day and they are livin' large. I did have to laugh when they asked me where I was from, however. They shook their heads, smiled, laughed, and said "Bush" when I told them. Our language skills (ok, MY language skills) were not good enough to find out their real thoughts on that invasion/occupation and if the quality of life is better now or worse, or if it was worth the cost.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 2 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 103833
Monday April 24th
Kasteli-Kissamos Greece: On the road back to the north coast from Paleochora I saw some stunning views, but also clear evidence of erosion and lack of environmental foresight. The olive grove below is a good example of how Crete has lost, and/or is losing, much of it's topsoil.
Decimating the natural and diversified forests, and planting olive trees (which can live to 1000 years and beyond!) exclusively, has helped the wind and rain take it's toll on the land. Olive trees have a deep tap root which does not hold the surface soil like many of the other trees in a functional forest could on account of their broader reaching root system. Ok, I admit the goats don't help much either.
Still, it is now pretty much accepted that olive oil is not just a less harmful oil to consume, but is absolutely good for us with all of it's antioxidants! Additionally, I have found that high quality, single source, first cold expeller-pressed, Cretan oil has a high enough smoke point to deep fry with as well!
Moving on, I enjoyed the rest of the scenic route back to the north coast and arrived at the Kasteli-Kissamos waterfront for a convenient place to park while wandering the short, non touristy, boardwalk.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 15 Supplies: 0 Misc: 0 Odometer: 103927
Tuesday April 25th
Kasteli-Kissamos, Greece: Great fun last night touring the tiny waterfront cafe area filled with locals. Met a nice couple of Germans this morning and we wasted the whole afternoon watching boats go by. We are all catching in the morning to Gythio.
Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0 Fuel: 0 Tolls: 0 Food/Drink: 20 Supplies: 0 Misc: 1e internet Odometer: 103927
Wednesday April 26th
Gythio, Greece: With a
some navigational help from the ferry crew, I was
firmly jammed under the second story ramp and behind a couple of
supporting beams. Looks like a FILO situation. Others, like the nice
German couple I met yesterday, were put on the other side, and were
afforded a much quicker
On the deck I met up with said Germans and a couple
of more as well. It was a busy day at the docks, with all sorts of
people coming out to say goodbye to friends and relatives after the long
Easter weekend.
The seas were VERY rough (too rough even to put in at normally scheduled Antikythira island) so I mostly remained on the stern to watch the horizon, avoid the puke tainted cabin air, and get the most stable ride. One walk to the bow and found I could barely stand! It was great looking over the rails, and I felt more exhilaration verses sickness, but once I stepped inside, I could easily see why more than half the passengers, and some of the crew, were not feeling up to snuff. The bow spray was easily soaking the lounge windows and we were on deck eight!
When the cafeteria opened, I grabbed a terrible lunch with a 69 year old ex-high school physics and math teacher from San Diego. He is on a solo bike tour of Greece for three months and really enjoying it. Fun guy to chat with for a while, and I ran into him later at night in Gythio as well.
I did wind up being the last off, after Ernie and Renatta, and then the three of us went on a quest to find some organic olive oil at Biohof Karababas located way out in tarnation. It was nice to enjoy the ride while Ernie drove all over the place and Renatta attempted to navigate with the directions and map they had. After getting lost several times, and backtracking, we finally arrived and they bought about ten-five liter boxes and I got one-three liter box. It is really good stuff, and this should last me for at least a couple of months. |
Friday March 17th
Saturday
March 18th
friendly town, that is apparently still active during the winter. Not
too touristy (a few British ex-pats living out their lives) and a great
beach location that is warm yet windy.
Sunday March 19th
Monday March 20th
Tuesday
March 21st
Hora Sfakion, Greece:
There is a nice little canyon hike from Imbros to Komitades,
about ten clicks downstream nearer the coast. It only took
about one and a half hours to do (plus another hour walking
the road back to Hora Sfakion), but it is quite pleasant.
Sunday March
26th
pissed-off
geese. They actually tried to chase me away as I walked by the marsh on
my way to the village! Crazy birds.
the
goats out) as a nature preserve and is filled with thyme, sage,
rosemary, and other herbs, in addition to various wild flowers. The easy
trail up the center stream is nice enough, but taking the time to crawl
up a side canyon is well worth the extra effort.
Friday March 31st
Monday
April 3rd
the hatches and read a book. As luck would have it, the wind died (dust
still settling) in time for checking out the local night life.
lined
with cheap hotels packed with, mostly, Northern European tourists on a
quick holiday.
again teeming with life. It was quite easy
for me to get lost in this area, but enjoyed walking around,
seeing the new international electrical danger signs and looking for my
two destinations...a bookshop and trekking company.
Friday
April 14th
Saturday
April 15th
Sunday
April 16th
city
with lots going on. Sure it has it's touristy old harbor, which is
REALLY hopping now, but also some interesting ways they have blended the
old ruins with modern techniques and turned out some upscale lodging,
etc.. It also just has a good "feel" to it. Friendly, fun to explore, a
couple nice museums (naval museum is free on Sundays!) and easy to get
lost in crazy streets.
bikes
parked everywhere, and shops simply put a tarp over their goods and
leave them on the sidewalk overnight, but I guess my first personal
experience with this occurred in Loutro.
This
gives me a long weekend to check out some new terrain along the west
coast allowing me to explore every major section of Crete.
Sunday April 23rd
For
6000 years the Mediterranean civilizations have been cultivating the
olive for human consumption, heat and light, lubrication, and medicinal
purposes...one Greek ruler even made it punishable by death for chopping
an olive tree down.
departure, but I am in no hurry.
