Where's Mike?

Section 22a: Poland, Russia, and the Baltic States

(Part Two)

Click here to see Section 21: Germany

Click here to see Section 22: Poland, Russia, and the Baltic States (Part One)

Wednesday September 6th

Naxta Inlet in the Gulf of Finland on the Baltic Sea , Russia: I hit the border town of Narva, spent the last of my EEK Kroner, stopped at a riverside park for some photos of Estonian and Russian guarding fortresses, and then spent HOURS reading a book at the crossing.

Initially I went straight to the border and found I needed to cue at the terminal...which is definitely NOT self explanatory. When my number is called at the terminal, I THEN drive to the actual border, a couple clicks away. Ugh.

Once my number was called, in  a group of ten, it went quickly. I drove a few clicks to the border. Got my passport stamped by Estonia officials, and then moved onto the bridge crossing the Habpa River into Russia proper! :-) Thoughts of, pretty much, everyone telling me I am crazy for going to Russia, even crazier for trying to drive, and clinically insane for actually driving a MoHo and camping, were fresh in my mind. I was beginning to wonder, what if everyone is right?

Fortunately, sitting on the bridge and waiting for the Russian border only took about an hour. Once I actually got to Customs/Immigration it was fairly fast and simple. I was happily surprised...especially now that it was getting late, and I was still very clueless as to where I would be staying.

Not wanting to attempt Piter at this late in the game, I headed north to the coast, and Gulf of Finland, in the hopes of bumping into a campground. My maps, purchased immediately after my successful crossing, showed several, but they were not to be found by me.

Instead, I wound up at an elderly hotel run by Alexander, who spoke not a word of English, but was incredibly nice.

Eventually he ran down Tatiana, a Muscovite wrapped in only a towel after her exit from the sauna, who translated for us. He was so excited that I was an American. The first to ever come to his hotel, and the first he had ever met! He led me everywhere, and tried to offer me everything...not realizing I needed nothing but sleep at that stage, and the shivering Tatiana needed to either get back in the sauna or put some clothes on.

Camp Fee: 6e

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 13e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 3e border charge, 3.5 maps

Odometer: 116063

Thursday September 7th

KOPKNHCKOE O3EPO, Russia: Say that three times fast! Damn! I can't say it once, but it's a nice little lake about 15 clicks east of St Petersburg, and it's where I wound up tonight after a pleasant morning, a hellish afternoon, and a desperate evening, in Russia.

This morning Alexander was there to greet me and show me around his hotel again. By US (or any second or third World country standards) the main hotel building is a rundown, cockroach infested, fire trap, with plumbing standards making an outhouse a pleasant option (I have literally spent the night in a a  public restroom, on an ice climbing trip to Banff, which was more comfortable than one of these rooms would be). Communal toilets that do not flush, holes in the floor, no showers, but a simple tap into a laundry tub, for washing up...! Wow! I didn't have the heart to take a photo, but the image is burned into my mind.

The new sauna building, on the other side of the yard (?) was pretty darn nice however. Very interesting  set up.

The entry room has a nice table and benches for hanging out, and is also where you stock the fire for the boiler...which is halfway on the other side of the wall in the sauna proper. Also in the sauna room is the stove (also with a small stocking door), a pile of wet rocks, and some plumbing apparatus I was not quite able to figure out 100%. It's a large room, with two levels, and space for probably 10-15 people. Nice.

Just outside the sauna-proper is, what was described to me as, the shower room. No actual shower, as some may recognize it, but tubs and jars of water used for splashing on your body to cool down after a sauna stint. Not sure if that room would pass a health inspection, but in general, the sauna was interesting to check out.

The one saving grace of the hotel is that it sits on the Baltic. It even has some slime-ridden, and rusty, row boats you can take through the reeds via a channel. Don't mean to be critical, because I really did enjoy the location, and realize there are differences all over the world.

Tatiana and Ishmael, two guests on a biking vacation from Moscow, were also a bright spot...actually EVERYONE I met there was incredibly nice, friendly, and helpful...and assisted Alexander and my translations a bit.

Additionally they invited me to share in their breakfast of little crepe-wrapped jams fried in hot oil, and gave me a heartfelt gift on my departure. Very class, and it is difficult for me to put into words how good, and bad, that made me feel. These people who are are taking their hard-earned vacation time to ride a train from Moscow and spend time in this (described above) hotel can not be bathing in financial success...yet they still offer me food and gifts.

I wonder if I am an ungrateful asshole for even pointing out some of the negatives of the place, or pointing out their lack of money. I don't, however think of them as poor, for I felt nothing but a richness in their lives, happiness with their dreams, and excitement by meeting an American. The same goes for Alexander, the hotel owner. You could feel the pride he exuded during our tour.

On toward St. Petersburg!

The drive into town was not far, but it took a long time on account of the rough roads. My maps, however, for the area outside St Petersburg, are perfect down to the smallest dirt road and intersection.

Once in town my plan was to find a TI, get a detailed city map, and get some local information on either a nearby campground, or a 24 hour secure parking area where I could leave my MoHo, and then stay at a hostel. Unfortunately the partly cloudy day which allowed me to get a quick glimpse of a small part of town, turned into a thundering downpour. It was a pain in the ass. My visibility was limited, not that I can read the signs anyway (case in point, read the name of the place I'm staying tonight), I am driving what must be the ONLY MoHo in Russia, I am very self conscience that everyone keeps staring at me, it is getting later in the day, I am fearful of both getting stopped by the officials AND/OR getting car-jacked (really!), and simply full of angst in general. The F'ing place terrified me. This is all in addition to the fact that I must register my visa with OTDEL VIZ i REGISTRATSII or face grave consequences from the Russian OViR and border officials.

I tossed my maps in the back, grabbed my compass, and headed east. I knew if I could just get out of town, I would be ok. I also knew there was a Massive Lake, Ladozskoje Ozero to be precise, that must have a campground on it.

Once out of town I stopped to consult my maps again and get a bearing on the campground marked on it. I check the closest one, about ten clicks from town and next to a smallish lake, but find it closed. The area, however is beautiful...if you don't look too closely at the water, or on the shore. Garbage is EVERYWHERE! Broken glass, too, is everywhere. Not wise to free camp, is my guess.

I move on to check three other camps, and cant find any of them. What was I thinking? How dumb is it to bring a MoHo into Russia and expect to find a campground? I was told by anyone, and everyone, that it was an insane idea. And to do it ALONE!? Hmmm.

I keep driving, about another ~30-40 clicks, and was becoming WAY depressed, when I finally hit the big lake and found the other campground I was looking for. The guard came out to the gate, with garbage all around, and informed me they were closed. I thought about just free-camping on the beach, but then looked at the fence, the gate, and the dogs, all protecting a shitty little piece of garbage strewn ground 50 clicks from the city, and a good 5 clicks from the nearest village, and decided it may not be safe, although I cant picture ANYONE wanting to come out here...especially someone looking to steal an item of value.

Again I start to drive. It is getting late, I am getting tired, and I am formulating an escape plan. If I simply abandon all hope of doing St Petersburg, and tough it out for a few more hours, I can be at the border, and back to the safe and sane Estonia, by midnight. Just another terribly failed traveler running home with his tail between his legs.

I head south to catch E105 which will take me back to town, but more importantly to E20, and the freedom of the west!

Along the way I decided to ignore the US State Departments strong warning to NEVER pick up hitchhikers in Russia (hey, I also ignored their advice to NOT drive into Russia!) and picked up a couple kids that spoke a bit of English. Not only was it fun chatting with them, but they remembered a little lake their parents took them to once, and it happens to be marked on my map with a campground sign!

I decided to give it one last shot, and arrived at PBI6ANKA on the shores of KOPKNHCKOE O3EPO at dusk. Lots of people partying and dancing under the trees. The rain has stopped, the evening is warm, the vodka is flowing, a few speak English and I am beginning to like Russia once again!

One of the partiers, Alex, explained to me that this is a company retreat and birthday party for one of the women in the IT department of their large gas company. I am really starving, but without being rude, am unable to break away from the group and make some food. It seems everyone wants to come and say hello to the American in the strange looking camping mobile.

Eventually, a bus load of them head back to St Petersburg, and a few others in their own cars trickle out as well...leaving only a not-so-happy husband and his overly friendly wife who is making a heavy play for me. I continue to turn her down, and am praying her husband (who has now not only started the car, but backed it up to where his wife has me pinned against my front bumper) speaks enough English to know that I am not trying to steal his wife. He gives a sharp tap on the horn as she goes in for a smooch.

Whew! Talk about being saved by the bell! I am so relieved she is gone, her husband never kicked the crap out of me, and I that I get to eat dinner at two in the morning.

Camp Fee: 7.5

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 12e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 116311

Friday September 8th

KOPKNHCKOE O3EPO, Russia: After the long day, and late night, I slept in to the sound of pouring rain. I ain't moving! During an afternoon break in the rain, where it was only drizzling, I hiked around the lake. It was only 3-4 clicks total, but it was nice to stretch the legs and get some fresh air.

This "campground" seems to be more of an all-day picnic area. It is close to St Petersburg, so perfect for a quick get-away. There are a few cabins, and that seems to be the way most people camp in Russia and the Baltic States. No tents.

I appear to be next to the communal shelter and another group of partiers come by for drinking, dancing, eating, and general partying. Again, they all left late at night, but one other Van did spend the night...so people DO camp in Russia!?

Camp Fee: 7.5e

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 10e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 116311

Sat-Mon September 9-11th

St. Petersburg, Russia: After a couple days enjoying the peace and tranquility of the rainy woods, my bitter attitude changed to a better one. I was rejuvenated, and hopeful, after meeting some nice, friendly, and helpful people. This being the case, I decided to give St. Petersburg another shot.

Heading back into town, I picked up a really stellar city map in addition to a hint on secure parking at the Hotel Mockba.

Hotel Mockba sits next to the Neva river on the southeast end of the main shopping/tourist street...Nevskiy Prospeckt. Although they claim to be a five star hotel, the secure parking out front was the main thing I wanted. Cost was about 75e/night, plus 20e for parking. My travel agency, Open Up, which charged me 80e for an "invitation" to Russia, and was supposed to help me arrange accommodation as well, made me an offer of 65e for a dormitory bed in a hostel with no parking, so I think I did well.

This 5-Star does have lots of amenities (bars, restaurants, ticket booking office, concierge, secure/guarded parking, strip club, gym, pool, business center, prostitutes in the lobby, 24 hour mini-market, free breakfast, etc.) and my room was as inviting as any Motel 5.3 you could imagine. Not quite like the last five star I visited in Caracas, but the sheets are clean, the mattress was firm enough, and that is really all that matters.

300 years ago this area was nothing more than a swamp, and delta, of the Neva River when Peter the Great decided to build St Petersburg as his Window on the West. Today it is crossed with numerous canals and filled with stunning palaces and world-class museums. It is also as hedonistic, and expensive, a city as I've ever visited. In addition to the numerous operas and ballets available, the live music and/or club venues are countless. Needless to say, I got little sleep while in town, yet always managed to sleep through that free breakfast buffet.

All three of my days and nights were filled with activity. Seeing a ballet and/or  opera is pretty much a must for any visit to Russia, but I also took a bunch of time to locate an as authentic a restaurant as I could  possibly find on one evening...just to get away from the "touristy" things. The girl at the ticket office recommended a great place not on her official "list" of where to send guests. It's where her and her family go out for dinner and entertainment. The Senat, was great. Off the main drags, pleasant, cheap, and good food...in addition to sporadic dancing to go with the Russian music. No one spoke English, and I never saw any European-looking clients.

My clouded, rainy, days were spent wandering the streets, gazing at building, and checking out the similarities, and differences, to what I am used to. Lots of beat-up old Lada's driving around and the one MakAohaNAc I did see, I had to photograph...not because I would ever want to eat there, but just to show the language difficulty. Without the Greasy Arches, I would have never recognized this fine dining establishment.

The Hermitage museum was founded in 1764 and needs 400 galleries spread between five buildings to house it's works. Truly classic, I am told, but I did not venture inside for two reasons. One, It would have taken me two weeks to see it all, and two, I was more interested in seeing Russia verses the work of artists which I can see in almost any city.

The Kuntstkamara was recommended to me by a Finnish woman I met one night. The Freaks Museum is how she referred to it, but the Russian's translate it to be the Chamber of Curiosities and is essentially a museum of biology and anthropology. It is interesting, but those with a weak stomach should take a pass.

Ultimately, St Petersburg is an interesting city, but I was a bit disappointed with it. Yes, it has lots of beautiful things, but for my tastes it is already too Westernized and not different enough to warrant the difficulties of a visit....Mexico city, Hong Kong, and Santiago are different, but St Petersburg could be any other overly expensive European city and does not reflect the genuine Russia I saw in the countryside.

At 17 million square kilometers, Russia is the worlds largest country. It has much to offer, even without St Petersburg.

Camp Fee:  0

Fuel: 28e for 55.5l at 116315/518km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: ~500e?

Supplies: 0

Misc: 60e parking, 1.5e internet, 2e Piter Map, hotel for Sat-Mon 225 e, 25e transport, 80e for opera and ballet, 20e on entry fees, 50e postcards.

Odometer: 116356

Tuesday September 12th

Zalahtov'e, Russia: Left Piter and headed toward Chudskoje Ozero (Peipsi Jarv on the Estonian side) which I heard was the largest European lake. It IS big. Seems to have a semi-substantial tide and lots of shell fish.

Strangely, but I'm getting used to it, there are NO campgrounds on this massive body of water! At least on the Russian side. I wound up free camping on the shore next to Chudskoe Cabins and it is WAY cheaper than having to stay in a hotel and buy three meals a day!

Camp Fee: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 8e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 116633

Wednesday September 13th

Raznas Esers, Latvia: It felt great to free camp again after so long! It is just more natural, and makes SO much more sense on a long journey like mine. The natural beauty of this location was also a joy.

Anyway, I continued south to Ostrov and then caught a toll road (E262/A116) toward the border. There were no toll booths, and the narrow road was in such poor quality that I had to stop several times to make sure I was on the correct path. The periodic lorry, and my compass heading, were the only convincing arguments.

Just before the border I stopped to get rid of any excess Rubles on a few gift bottles of Russian vodka for friends back home, and was amazed by the woman using an abacus faster than I've seen other's scan a barcode! It was amazing, and I actually took my time window shopping as I watched. When my turn came up, I indicated that I would like a photo of her and her abacus. She was all grins! Blah bla blabla computer bla-blah...and on, and on, in Russian! She was excited about my interest in her store and computer, and not unhappy at all with me taking her photo.

Moving on the few clicks to the border I hit the road toll station (finally) and customs. Everything was smoothly progressing on my second exit from Russia (no bribes needed to be paid) until a formidable woman, whom I presumed was in charge, and looked amazingly like a larger version of my recent store owner down the street, came to look over the shoulder of the officer checking me out. Her dour expression turned to thoughtfulness as she answered her phone, chatted a bit, looked at me, double checked my passport, and then started earnestly chatting away. Blah bla blabla computer bla-blah...and on, and on, in Russian!

I swear to God it must have been her sister calling from the store, and talking about the odd American who was so interested in her computer, but the customs agent was all smiles and chat (although I have no idea what she said to me) by the time she hung up, and I was free to go. It all may have taken 20 minutes...a new Russian record.

Free camping next to a beautiful lake and have arranged a row boat rental for the morning.

Camp Fee: 0

Fuel: 22.5e for 43l at 116724/408km and 9e for 17l at 116853/129km

Tolls: 11.5e

Food/Drink: 30e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 40e Vodka Gifts, 4e boat rental for Thurs.

Odometer: 116934

Thursday September 14th

Raznas Esers Lake, Latvia: Last night I had arranged to take a row on the lake, but no one unlocked the boat so I hiked, swam, read, and relaxed instead.

Camp Fee: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 116934

Friday September 15th

Trakai, Lithuania: After one last look at this most beautiful camping area on Raznas Esers Lake, I continued my drive south through the Latgale Upland of SE Lativa. This is a most beautiful lake district and blues and greens dominate the vivid landscape. Rolling tree-covered hills give way to numerous lakes, streams, rolling grass-covered hills, ornate cemeteries, and picturesque villages. I stopped on several occasions to take a photo, but realized I could never capture the beauty of this with the pixels at hand. I wound up with exactly zero shots of this area I must return to.

The border was quick and easy...Latvia just waved me through but Lithuania at least checked my passport and car papers.

After a long day of driving, the Vilnius rush hour was the expected pain. I headed right through, and on toward Trakai to find a campsite (missing the turn for an additional 64 RT clicks) by the lake. This was my goal, as I am not even all that interested in seeing Vilnius.

Kempingas Slenyje is a friendly place and I quickly met a bunch of Germans, Poles, and Roland, a Swiss traveling alone. He came over to share his beer with me and chat.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 5.85lt

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 117314

Saturday September 16th

Trakai, Lithuania: From Kempingas Slenyje is a great view of the Island Castle, and Trakai, across the way. On the shores, are a bunch of row boats. Decision made.

I took the morning to do up three loads of wash, my dishes, and generally clean out my rig, but saved the afternoon for a bit of a row.

There were tons of sailboats out enjoying the fresh breeze, and I almost had one minor (to him) collision! :-)

It really seemed to be a very friendly lake, with several of the sail boats, those not racing, coming up to me in my little rowboat and chatting. FUN times, on such a beautiful day.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: --

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 37lt wine

Supplies: 0

Misc: 6lt row boat

Odometer: 117314

Sunday September 17th

Trakai, Lithuania: Today I decided to snag a bus in to town, wound up meeting some Russian guy along the way, and we checked out town together.

Trakai is a very attractive village, with quite a few interesting things to see. It has a couple of castles... one on the peninsula, mostly un-restored, and the more popular Island Castle.

Island castle, the one I rowed around yesterday, is, as reported by the Trakai tourist information center, the only European castle built on an island...I guess England, Wales, Scotland, and Ireland don't technically count as part of Europe on account of plate tectonics, but who wants to delve that deep? Undoubtedly, it is an interesting place to visit.

On the way over the pedestrian bridge to the castle, Melinda from CA accosted me in the hopes I could take her picture. She too took mine as we spent about an hour posing prior to Ivan and I continuing into the castle museums.

On my exit, as Ivan and I became separated, Melinda and I met up again.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: --

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 16lt

Supplies: 0

Misc: 1lt bus, 10lt Island Castle, 1lt WC, 4lt torture chamber

Odometer: 117314

Monday September 18th

Elk, Poland: Gunter, a solo explorer from Germany, was trying to talk me into hitting the geographical center of Europe just north of Vilnius. Un/fortunately I did not have the will to drive through Vilnius again, so headed, instead, for warmer climes to the west and south. Poland.

The amazing event of the day was that I found LETTUCE in Augustow, Poland, and bought three heads of various types. Greens are difficult to find in Russia and the Baltic States and I was missing them! I wound up camping at a backyard place near Elk called Agroturpstpka and hope to either rent a kayak here in the am, or move onto...who knows where?

Oh, the other quite interesting thing happening at the Plus Grocery Store was that I purchased a sauté pan by the kilo! It was very expensive, as the stocker-girl informed me when asked, at 27.95 z/kilo!

Camp Fee from prior night/s:114lt; and 8e for tonight

Fuel: 184.5lt for 62.5l at 117414/561km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 2lt, 26.5e

Supplies: 4.5e sauté pan

Misc: 0

Odometer: 117575

Tuesday September 19th

Mikolajiki, Poland: There are no boats to rent here this late in the season, so, after saying goodbye to the camp dog, I took a drive through the Great Masurain Lakes Region. More than 2000 lakes, many connected by streams, rivers, and man-made canals.

In Mikolajki I hit the town square, the marina, and the TI, before heading on a northern loop to check out the three bunkers Hitler used as his base for his offensive against Russia. The Wolfslair, the most popular bunker, where an assassination attempt was made on Hitler's life by one of his generals, is pretty much devastated, but about 18 clicks to the north is a base which is largely untouched. Interesting birds-eye views of the compound can be had from one of the largest bunkers, but seeing anything from the air is difficult. Good camouflage.

On the way back to camp, I was close to being involved in a car crash! I was following this little shit-box of a car when he tried to hang a left. The car behind me never saw him, and was eager to pass. SMACK. The speed of the pass, the small car, and my big MoHo all contributed, but I was unscathed.

I stopped, but everyone was ok, and, since I cant speak Polish and was of no help on the scene, I drove on a few clicks to Gizycko, stopped in at the police station where I reported the accident, and was told I was free to go.

Staying at Wagbunda camp in Mikolajki...it is a flooded mosquito nesting ground.

3.9z to the e.

Camp Fee: --

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 15e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 2e net, 2e map, 1e park,

Odometer: 117801

Wednesday September 20th

Mikolajiki, Poland: The damn mosquitoes tried to drive me out of camp, but when I went to pay, and more importantly, get my passport back, the camp-girl was gone and the door was locked. Damn....ok, I guess I'll stay another day.

Checked out a bit more of town after this rain-ridden night, and cloudy morning. Town is nice. Quaint, friendly, and right on the lake. No downside that I can see...other than the flooded campground.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: --

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 3e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 2.5 internet

Odometer: 117801

Thursday September 21st

Some rest stop on E75/1 between Czestochowa and Katowice, Poland: My plan is to head south ASAP. Nights here are getting cold...telling me I am WAY too far north. Need to get to warmer climes, maybe fly a bit more, maybe hike, maybe swim, and definitely work on my tan before winter hits. I plan on wintering over one more time. Perhaps even traveling to Africa?

Out of Mikotajki and east on 16 to Olsztyn. South on 51 to Plonsk, 50 through Sochaczew to the major E67/8 highway, which enables to me to miss Warszawa and it's traffic. Need to come back to explore Warszawa at some point in the future.

E75 south out of Plotrkow Tryb, where I free camped at a roadside rest area with about 100 others in various modes of transport from lorries, to working panel-vans, to tiny two-seat cars. There was even one other MoHo.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 20e

Fuel: ???? at 118007/593km ????

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 36

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 118288

Click here to see Section 23: South to Slovenia and Croatia