Where's Mike?

Section 23: South to Slovenia and Croatia

Click here to see Section 22: Poland, Russia, and the Baltic States (Part One)

Click here to see Section 22a: Poland, Russia, and the Baltic States (Part Two)

Friday September 22nd

Loipersdorf Reststop, Austria: Continuing my mad dash to the south, I got another early start heading south on E75/1, past Katowice, and all the way to the Polish-Czech border at Cieszyn.

Leaving E75 just past the border, I blasted west through the Czech Republic on E462 and south on E461 toward the Austrian border and Wien.

At another time, I would be interested in seeing Vienna/Wien. However, my mood is more geared toward the natural beauty, waiting farther south, than a city, right now. Oh, and I am still not 100% where I am going to be heading tomorrow? Could be Tolmin in Slovenia for some flying, could be the Dolomites in Italy for some flying, or it could be the coast of Croatia for some swimming?

Great Austrian rest stop. Quiet, treed, secure, free, and it has free showers!

Czech exchange rate is....? Just got some fuel on a credit card.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 1775.5 Czk for 61l at 118564/557km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 7.5e

Supplies:

Misc: 370 Czk for 23l of GPL

Odometer: 118925

Saturday September 23rd

Bled, Slovenia: Still not knowing where I was going, and needing to make a decision in the next hundred, or so, kilometers, I took the time for breakfast and some pouring over of my maps. By the time I left, I was till unsure if I was heading to Italy, Slovenia, or Croatia...but figured it would itself out...and it did.

Slovenia splits the difference, so is the obvious choice. From Slovenia I can easily head to the Dolimiti or slide down the coast into Croatia. I also realized that Graz is not the decision point for Slovenia. There is a small pass farther west, to the south of Klagenfurt, as well. From my trip last year, I knew that I did not want to do the Italian approach on account of steepness. My Volvo V-50 barely made THAT pass, so I had no illusions of the MoHo making it.

This pass (Hwy 91) was not too much better, and I spent about 30 minutes in first gear at around 15 clicks/hour! Beautiful drive, but no way to stop (would never get going again) for a photo until the border crossing at the summit tunnel.

This entrance to Slovenia made it convenient to stop at Lake Bled before heading onto to Ljubljana, and I am happy I did. The drive to the far side of the lake is very tight, making stops impossible, but once I checked into the clean and quiet Five Star Camping Bled on the shores of the warm lake, I enjoyed a walking loop (maybe six or seven clicks?) around the lake.

Views of the Island Church (Some of the campground literature claimed this to be the ONLY real island in Slovenia, but I don't know how they define "real".), the cliff-side castle, the dramatic mountain backdrop, and the hopping, resort-style, town are truly spectacular.

The local TI mentioned there is paragliding to be had around here, as well as nearby Bohinjsko Lake and the Mt Vogel Gondola, so I will check in with them in the morning. The sites here are 4X4 access, so I sort of need to tag along with the tandem guys, if I can manage it.

Tons of activity, and a really great feel, in town as some international sculling races are happening. This in addition to the many other outdoor recreational activities that abound.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 66.87e for 65l at 119131/567km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 36e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 2e caulk gun

Odometer: 119209

Sunday September 24th

Bled, Slovenia: I called the local paragliding tandem operation to see about tagging along with them for a flight, but they have no tandems scheduled, so are not going up the hill. Bummer. Clouds and chance of showers are forecast for Monday, as well. Bigger bummer.

Hit the beach for a swim, did another walk into town, and basically vegged out. Great day. Warm and sunny.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: --

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 119209

Monday September 25th

Boh Bistrica (near Bohinjsko Lake), Slovenia: It was way cloudy this morning, indicating to me that the forecast for rain in the afternoon could come true, and since no one was flying here, I I decided to move ~30 clicks up the valley to check out Bohinjsko Lake and other PG possibilities for when the weather clears.

In town I took the time to walk around one of the most colorful, and certainly the tidiest, cemeteries I have ever seen. All the candles were actually burning and all the flowers were either freshly cut, or, much more commonly, alive and well in the built-in planter boxes on every grave. Some had flowers, some had herbs, some had evergreen shrubs...but no daisies!

A quick trip to the upper end of the lake offered some beautiful Autumn views of both the lake and the surrounding mountains. The upper end of the lake was as smooth as glass and many were out catching the fleeting rays of summer, as they relaxed on the shore. The foliage is starting to change, clearly indicating my favorite season is upon me. :-)

Back in town, with the WX looking GREAT, I found the Pac Sports tandem pilots and caught a ride. It was a nice 30 minute, 650m, extended sled ride after a quick launch into lightening wind. I never even took the time to dig out my camera for fear it would go OTB and my drive/hike would be for naught.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 23e

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 5e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 4e transport up hill

Odometer: 119264

Tuesday September 26th

Bovec, Slovenia: Once again the forecasted rain is nowhere to be seen, so I headed to the LZ and watched as one round of tandems landed. We then all piled in for another round. Unfortunately, when we got to the top, the wind had increased from the NE, quartering left OTB, creating a wicked rotor. We all drove down.

After meeting Mike and Caroline from GB, and learning about a free camp in Bovec, I hopped the car-train through/over the mountains. Great views while not in tunnels.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 8e

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 1e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 16e AutoTrain

Odometer: 119338

Wednesday September 27th

Bovec, Slovenia: Free water, free power, and great views from a perch 30 meters above the valley floor, create a nice camp at the base of the gondola.

My German neighbors are paragliding pilots who happen to have site guide for all of Slovenia. We poured over info for a while, but there was no way I was flying today on account of the strong wind. Instead, I drove into town, not realizing it was only a ten minute walk, looking for rafting companies. There are several, but I liked Soca Rafting  the best, and decided on canyoning today and rafting tomorrow. It was great! After 30 min of hiking we we enjoyed about 20 jumps and slides into plunge pools.

The guide took photos, but I was always cringing in fear, like a complete wimp, so I didn't buy any.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 3e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 1.5 internet, 53 Canyon and Raft Trip

Odometer: 119345

Thursday September 28th

Bovec, Slovenia: I am liking Bovec more and more with each passing day. It really is a beautiful valley!

Anyway, rafting was on the agenda for today and it was very nice. The river is running low, so the highest grade rapid was only a three plus, but the crystal clear water, the bird life, some cliff diving, the leaves changing colors, swimming the last 150m, and some good people (a Polish couple, an Auzzi guy, and a Slovenian girl, in addition to Sasha (our guide) made it a ton of fun.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 1e internet

Odometer: 119345

Friday September 29th

Kobraid, Slovenia: Left my free camp early this morning so I could meet the Paragliding Bus at Camp Koren in Kobraid. Unfortunately the bus was full so Tomek, a Polish pilot, and I jumped in his beemer and met the other bus in the LZ a few clicks away and we all headed up the hill to Stol.

Last year I had a great flight from Stol, but never did the full length of the ridge into Italy. This time I was hoping to remedy that if at all possible.

Conditions were light as we arrived, but within a half an hour, a German wind dummy went to check it out. He disappeared around the corner and we all thought he sank out. Another half an hour later, two more wind dummies gave it a shot and it looked way more promising as they were able to make a couple of turns. Everyone jumped to get their gear ready, making launch a crowded mess.

After about 15 Germans were in the air, I had the space to lay out and launch. There was a nice gaggle between the launch and the higher peak of Stol off to the west, but by the time I climbed up to them, someone decided to head the ~8 clicks to Kobraid and the whole pack of lemmings followed. That left me at about 1600 over launch, at cloudbase, and alone. There were two pilots still working below me, and I could see one white glider, presumably Tomek, heading west toward Italy. I took a couple more turns, until it got quite hazy, and let my GPS and compass lead me to the WSW till I left the clouds of Stol behind and reacquired the ridge.

About that time I noticed a tangle in my right/upper/outer A cascade. I really don't remember having any tangles on launch, but find it difficult to believe a collapse could have caused it...although I had taken a few nice ones over Stol. Anyway, this put a significant left turn in my glider requiring about 4 inches of opposite brake, or constant and exaggerated weight-shifting, on the side of the tangle, to fly straight.

I continued chasing Tomek and, as I was topping up at the Italian border, I noticed another glider a couple clicks behind, and below, me. Now I had one in front, and one behind, and it was actually very comforting to be bracketed like this as I was flying with no radio communication with anyone.

As I continued further into Italy, and toward the end of the ridge, I always tried to maximize my altitude while Tomek in front, and the other white glider behind, stayed lower. Not being familiar with the site, I wanted that extra cushion, and it helped me out on a couple of crossings.

The end of the ridge is about 12 clicks into Italy and, as Tomek and I approached, I saw another glider coming back along the ridge. It was the red/yellow wing that launched as our first wind dummy. Looks as if he did not sink out after all.

Tomek made the turn and flashed past me on the way home and, as I was making the turn, the last white glider retreated, a few clicks shy of the turn point, with Tomek's return.

Alone again, deep in Italian airspace, 1000+ over the changing colors of Fall, not being familiar with the area, and the fresh/crisp air, all blended to make me feel both contented and anxious at the same time.

Get high, stay high.

Find lift, stay in it.

Listening to what a couple great HG pilots told me years ago, I topped up a couple times on the way back, but, with the tailwind, the return to Slovenia, and then on to Kobraid, was really quite easy. I landed at the normal LZ, verses continuing on to Tolmin like I did last year, and then Tomek and I drove to Tolmin to check conditions for a flight there, but it was late, conditions were weakening, and no one was heading up the hill.

Instead, back at camp, he came by for a drink and BS session. It made for a relaxing ending to a GREAT DAY! ~35K with the Italian turn point at the end of the ridge.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 4.5

Supplies: 0

Misc: 4e internet, 2e Landing Ticket, 8.5e transport

Odometer: 119368

Saturday September 30th

Postojna, Slovenia: The forecasted clouds and rain/drizzle finally arrived this morning...and it is supposed to last for the next week, making flying both here, and in the Dolomiti, difficult. Note to self: To fly the Dolimiti requires a high pressure over the Alps. Anyway, I was packing up for a drive to Croatia when Tomek mentioned that he knew of another site that may be working.

Lijak is a drive-to ridge just southeast of Nova Gorica, about an hours drive from Kobarid, and often protected from the weather a bit better than those sites in the Julian Alps. Since it was on my way south anyway, there was no reason to not check it out.

We arrived on launch to light wind crossing from the SE (left) and about 30 pilots milling around. Eventually a couple tandems launched to make some money, but conditions were not prime for soaring until the middle of the afternoon. By the time it did turn on, there were a few storm clouds around and I was considering not flying at all so as not to get my wing wet, but eventually got drawn into the circus.

The flight was incredibly smooth, with the only bumps ever felt being caused by vortices of the other gliders. Lift was only about 100/min in most areas, with the occasional 200 up on a couple of the ridge lines facing the prevailing. Still, my Form 3 was able to quickly climb to the top of the stack, with about five other wings. Got about 500 over launch and had about 1.5 hours of airtime before heading out to pack up.

After retrieving Tomek's car, I headed on toward Postojnska Cave.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 6.5e

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 1

Food/Drink: 49e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 119527

Sunday October 1st

Postojna, Slovenia: Vegged in the rain, sipped some vino, and read a bit.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: --

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 119527

Monday October 2nd

Izola, Slovenia: Hit the Postojnska Jama this morning and, despite photos only being allowed in one of the lamest, and the largest, caverns, it is a worthwhile thing to see.

Postojnska cave was discovered back in 1818 and has over 20 clicks of passages, galleries, and chambers...most of which can be visited by the common man either via the "toy" train system or on privately organized spelunking adventures. Though the natural spelunking interested me the most, the cost of the guide, rental of gear, and time-lag, all encouraged me to do the two click tourist train, accompanied by a 1.5 click walk, instead.

After the artificial entrance tunnel, the first tunnel is black and sooty, the consequence of a fuel dump explosion during  WWII. Gothic Hall has many Stalactites and stalagmites, the Great Mountain is a  large room with a mound in the middle, but the Beautiful Caves and the Brilliant Passage are the best. Lots of "spaghetti" in these and also vivid colors. Reds, greens, whites, and shimmering blacks...depending on what the dripping water was tainted with in each location.

Of course like most caves, there is lots of wildlife. 130 species inhabit the cave but the most famous is the Human Fish. Neither human, nor fish, this albino salamander-like creature is about 20-30 cm long, blind, and did not appreciate the lights we used to observe them in their pool.

Photos were only allowed in Congress Hall, the largest cavern at 40 meters tall and complete with dance floor and section for a band. Ugh. It would be a drippy gathering.

After the cave I stopped by the only mechanic in town to see about my alternator. Ever since Poland (tried to have it checked, but it worked fine in the shop) the battery light has been periodically coming on, and for the last few days, it has been on constantly. I am bit irritated by this because it has been replaced only two months ago...in addition to those mechanics charging me 150e over their estimate so they could put in a new (?) one instead fixing the old.

My friend Bruno helped me talk to the French mechanics in an effort to see if they will cover the cost of repair. They say they will cover it, but only if they do the work! This would mean 3-400e in diesel, and 5-10 days of my vacation, to get to them and back!!! That is, of course, if the MoHo makes it.

The local guys could not get it in today (after me taking time out for those calls) so I have headed toward Italy for the night in the hopes of finding more options in a large town.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 19e

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 2.5

Supplies: 0

Misc: 17.5e Cave Entrance

Odometer: 119610

Tuesday October 3rd

Rovinj, Croatia: This morning the damn battery/alternator light did not come on. Stopped at one shop, and they told me that nothing comes up on the test, but they would love to tear it apart and let me know what may be wrong. With the French shop not willing to either refund their charge, nor pay for another repair, I hesitated at a fishing expedition. Again, I wish it would either work, or fail in a spectacular way so that the grease-monkeys could see it.

I crossed into Croatia, and hit the west coast of the heart-shaped Istria. Very windy, a bit cooler than yesterday, and the coast line is less than thrilling...to go along with the rolling interior.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 9e

Fuel: 57e for 57.5l at 119635/504km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 26e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 1.5 internet

Odometer: 119756

Wednesday-Saturday October 4-7th

Krk, Croatia: Windy weather and an unattractive, sandy, coast drove me out of Istria, through a torrential downpour of the mountain pass, and onto the island of Krk . Last year I had a ton of fun, but this stay was even better, if that's possible. Once again I stayed at Autocamp Jezevac in the village of Krk, where I met up with Michie, the daughter of the local vintner whom I met last year, for a couple enjoyable evenings, in addition to a small group of Germans (Gretchen, Rhonda, Ulaf and Marina) for some beach-time during the day and at least one big BBQ, wine-fest, etc. at night.

Essentially a pleasurable and relaxing few days here on Krk, but I need to head off to Italy soon so I can meet Arden and Lyn in Naples at the end of the month...especially since I plan on spending a day or two paragliding in the Dolomites along (sort of) the way.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 12.5e for the 3rd.

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 11.5

Food/Drink: 32e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 119907

Click here to see Section 24: Italy 2006