Where's Mike?

Section 27: Iberia in Winter of 2007

 

Click here to see Section 26: Espana December 2006

 

Click here to see Section 13: Iberia 2006

 

Click here to see Section 11: Espana 2005


Monday January 1st

 

Almunecar, Spain: Although the New Years started with a bang, by 14:00, it was looking to be a bit more painful than initially anticipated. Pasta, movie, a walk, and home to bed by 18:00.

 

I lost my jacket at some point in the evening, but am happy I still have my pants.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 126905

 

 

 

Tuesday January 2nd

 

Almunecar, Spain: Conditions were not looking great today and I was not in the mood for driving around the countryside for hours on end. Instead, I took a long walk around town for a bit of a stretch to get the blood flowing.

 

Claudia's Cafe, where I may have left my jacket on New Years AND where we frequented for fun several years ago while on my first PG trip to Spain, was closed...so, no jacket. The likelihood of me ever seeing it again is slim to none.

 

Headed to La Herradura for a swim and waited for any soaring to develop. It didn't.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 61e for 66l at 126927/521km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 12e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 1e internet

Odometer: 126949

 

 

 

Wednesday January 3rd

 

Almunecar, Spain: During our typical morning WX meeting I learned of a serious injury yesterday at Otivar. Conditions were light and the guy, apparently trying to eek out all he could, stalled the glider low to the ground and did not have time to recover before the resulting surge put him, hard, into the dirt. He was lucky to have missed a few piles of nearby rocks.

 

They called a chopper, but it went to the wrong location and it took over an hour for the ambulance to arrive. The broken leg was an obvious catch for the Motril Hospital, but it took Granada to catch the broken neck. He had been complaining about pain there...

 

Anyway, there are so many ski injuries that the Granada hospital cant deal with this guy, so he was soon shipped back to Switzerland, which is probably for the best anyway so he can be closer to his family.

 

No such bad luck for us today, but it wasn't great flying either. I had about four hours of hanging out on a crowded launch as several pilots took sledders to the small LZ on a ridge below us.

 

By mid afternoon things are not improving much. Everyone is either going off to the left or straight out. No one is getting anything in the way of lift.

 

When Nico came back up for his 2nd or 3rd flight, I suggested that the right side may be working better and he should try it. The sun is on that slope, it is up wind...so the slopes are on the windward side, but mainly...no one is going up anywhere else...so what is there to lose? In theory, it was a good suggestion, but theory and practice are two different things.

About 20 min later he pointed out a high aspect comp wing heading right and it actually got a bit over launch. Nothing great, only a hundred feet, or so, but soon another one joined in and they were both getting higher. NOW I am inspired to give it a try.

 

I have a smooth/fast launch and immediately tuck to the right. There are two wings up and three others working it below and I arrive between the five. I catch something a bit deeper in the gully than the the others and start to work. Soon the two top dogs come to join me and the three below bug out for the LZ.

Conditions are very light, and nothing grand is going to come of this flight, so my only goal is to climb to the top of the stack (shouldn't be possible fighting those two comp wings) and then leave for the LZ. The crowd I had been hanging with planned to head off to Itrabo for an evening glass-off and I didn't want to keep everyone waiting, AND it always feels good to leave the gaggle while on top!

 

It took about ten minutes, but the climb rate of my trusty Form 3 managed it by about 30 feet, so, after about 30 seconds of basking in glory, I head for the LZ. Unfortunately I see Elizabeth in the trees on the ridgeline along the way...

 

I guess I could have stayed up a bit longer than my 22 minutes because it took a while for Kurt to go collect his wife. Once that was accomplished, I jumped in with Frank and we all headed out for Itrabo and a 16 minute sledder to the beach.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 5e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 1e internet

Odometer: 126957

 

 

 

Thursday January 4th

 

Almunecar, Spain: Amazing, but true...Nico found my jacket at last nights paragliding Paella feed, which I skipped on account of lobster allergies.

 

We then packed into rigs for a trip to Cenes de la Vega near Granada and, at least an LZ, I had seen years before with the Boyz. The launch, on the other hand was only half the elevation and entailed a nice little walk.

 

I hiked to a higher ridge that was WAY ON, but the rest were down at the normal launch. I went down and talked them into another ten minutes of walking just to have conditions shut down.

 

It wound up being a lot of driving for 28 minutes of air time. Typical paragliding!

 

Back in town, Nico swung by around dinner time...an '01, '02, and '03 Ribera del Duero, a killer salad, and some great pasta were on the menu...in addition to one other bottle after we were booted from my parking place at 02:00 on account of the weekly Friday market starting to set up.

 

Camp Fee from prior night: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 1e internet

Odometer: 126964

 

 

 

Friday January 5th

 

Almunecar, Spain: Not feeling like driving today I, and about 20 others, chose to put our pennies in the La Herradura pot. For my efforts, on this windless day, I got a swim, a read, some sun, and a very relaxing day.

 

Note on water and parking: Fresh drinking water can be obtained from the tap at the Gas Station across from the city's treed parking area off the main highway through town. No parking at this treed lot on Fridays starting at 03:00 (on account of the weekend market), but there is space just east of the river along the park side road. Drinking taps are found here, as well.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink:

Supplies: 0

Misc: 3e internet

Odometer: 127002

 

 

 

Saturday January 6th

 

Almunecar, Spain: At this morning's meeting I was debating if I would fly or not. I wanted to get some laundry done and the place to do it was not open, despite it's posted times. Philipp saw my dilemma and immediately offered the machine in his and Kenan's apartment. Yea! Free laundry, but it did create a bit of a late start for the three of us.

 

Kenan was stressing a bit, and wanted to get moving, I assumed the day was going to hold another Otivar wait-fest and sled ride so was in no hurry, and Philipp was simply chilled. However, since Kenan was driving, he won out, we left my laundry in the machine, and blasted to Otivar.

 

On arrival in the LZ, no one was in the air. Ha! Then, about three minutes later, two launched and started climbing. Kenan pulled some serious G's on the way up to launch and, by the time we arrived, there were half a dozen pilots doing quite well.

 

The first big surge got about ten pilots working it out front, five pilots up and over the top, and three others on their way west to The Pyramid along the XC route to the beach at La Herradura. However, even as we rushed to get ready, the cycle was already dying out. Of the three that left for The Pyramid, one remained low at the terraced peak, one was scratching his way back to (perhaps?) make the LZ, and one was returning to just above launch. Those who had been above and behind were now out front and lower and those who had been out front were setting up for a landing.

Of course, as the next good cycle came around, I was ready to rock and roll and, amazingly, the launch was relatively clear since wind dummies continued to launch in the down cycle and mark the sink for us.

 

Everyone had started climbing and the indicators out front were promising a long cycle. I launched into the leading edge, cranked left into strong lift, and was 50feet over before I began my right 360. As luck would have it, another pilot was launching into my path so I was forced into a hard left turn away from that cycle. No worries. Ten seconds later I was below Nico and a few other in a thermal a bit farther out. We flew together for about five minutes until I took the thermal track heading back and they stayed out front. After another five minutes I was 2145 feet above launch, over the top of the peak, and all alone.

 

The top of this inversion was WAY bumpy (north flow over the top of this south facing site) and gave me some very active flying...in addition to watching for the other 50 pilots who should be climbing up here at any minute. Remembering Eric's (hg pilot/friend who helps me guide my Chile tours) advice, I knew it was probably no more bumpy over The Pyramid than it was here...so headed out.

The crossing was a bit more smooth and I only had one opportunity to top up the tanks on the way over. At that time, I saw a red XiX Sens (?) coming back. He was a couple hundred over me and I was becoming a bit apprehensive at not finding anything...even more now that a competition wing/pilot is retreating. I had heard on launch that The Pyramid was not working today and you had to have enough altitude to make the ridge-line beyond it.

 

I made it to The Pyramid, DID get a bit more, and worked that first ridge to the next point up, where I found enough to easily take me to the next ridge and the sharp tooth seen just left of The Pyramid. From there it was up, Up, UP to above the high point, above the inversion, and above/around the clouds.

 

Once I topped out amongst the wispy clouds, I continued west and farther back into the canyon, hoping to find more lift for the next long crossing. Nothing, but I just kept going, regardless of the next ridge being above me and my approaching the shaded side. At this elevation, the wind was light, so I told myself to not worry about a rotor, but couldn't help it, and the first bump had me puckering.

That bump wound up being lift I badly needed. Now level with the ridge I flew straight at it, climbing slightly all the way. By the time I got to it, I was about 50 feet over, in the convergence, and I able to climb out well. I can not describe how relieved I was to catch something, and I am happy I didn't have a VOX, else it would have left the pilots wondering what channel they'd tuned..."Come on baby, come on! Yea, oh yea! Ugh. Ahhhh! Ohhhh! That's it, come on...do it! Do it! AHHHHHhhhhhhh! Yes, YES YES!!!" Etc., etc., etc., until I was well above the ridge and back within my safety zone. Big stress for a bit!

 

From there, regardless of still being deep in the hills, it was pretty much a looonngg glide. I tried to stay right on top of the flattening ridge and work every mouse fart I could find, which was not a lot, until I almost had the beach on glide and didn't need it.

 

I was really expecting to see a dozen other gliders coming in as I was packing up, but, other than that one XiX heading back to launch, I didn't see any other wings in the air or on the beach. The one pilot at La Herradura was not flying but I was lucky enough to have him and his girlfriend offer me a ride home after drinks.

Back at the Beach Bar in Almunecar, I learned that one other pilot, also flying an XiX, also made the XC to La Herradura. A great day for me after 1:11 in the air, 800 feet per minute both up & down, and 2145 feet over launch.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 6 (drinks for my Swiss retrieve drivers)

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 127006

 

 

 

 

Sunday January 7th

 

Almunecar, Spain: After changing a flat tire this morning, I arrived, late, to many pilots heading to Orjiva, up near the dam on the way to Granada. I pass on the Canadian's invitation for for a 2+ hour adventure drive to another site, where we may, or may not, fly, and jump in with Kurt from Germany.

 

The LZ is in the river bottom and the launch is 3K feet above, to the north of town.

 

Once we found the launch area, it is another game of waiting for things to develop, and I launched as soon as I saw one person get a bump. Although there was not a lot of lift, I did get a few hundred over launch, and was able to extend my flight to a pleasant 25 minutes. Better than rain...

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 2

Supplies: 0

Misc: 5e pitching in for a ride

Odometer: 127012

 

 

 

Monday January 8th

 

Almunecar, Spain: On account of it being Sunday, I was not able to get my tire fixed yesterday, so planned on getting it done today. Could not find the local tire shop, so drove to Motril where everything was closed for the afternoon siesta. Drove back, figuring I could just get it done at some later stage, and wound up with ANOTHER flat after pulling into the beach at La Herradura! Topped the air and limped it back to Almunecar where I was, finally, able to locate a shop able to repair one tire, but not the both. The one unable to be fixed has the toasted side wall from my excursions into Russia. Not wanting to spend 90e on a new tire, I got directions to a junk yard in Motril and hope to get it sorted out tomorrow.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 31e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 4e laundry, 10e flat tire repair

Odometer: 127086

 

 

 

Tuesday January 9th

 

Almunecar, Spain: I met up with all the pilots again this morning, but had only planned on flying if the forecast was KILLER! It wasn't, so I headed off to Motril to sort out my tires. Finally found the junk yard and wound up with three used tires/wheels for 20e each. With those, and my spare, I have four great tires and kept the best of what was left for my new spare and gave the other three back to the junk yard so they can make another few bucks... I had forgotten how tiring and dirty it is to rotate tires with only a cheesy little jack.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 14e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 60e used tires, 2e internet

Odometer: 127150

 

 

 

Wednesday January 10th

 

Torremolinos, Spain: The WX has finally changed. It is cold, there is no wind for ridge soaring, and thick cirrus blocking any potential thermal heating. I said goodbye to everyone and head west with the realization that I could have flown everyday, but am really happy with five days in the last ten.

 

On the beach just NW of Torremolinos is a sort of "no-mans land" which is between the city limits of Malaga and Torremolinos. Here I found close to a hundred camper-vans either on the beach, or in two large parking areas just behind the beach. I found a nice spot on the beach and then quickly found Jim, the Brit I was tentatively to meet here for New Years, prior to getting sidetracked for flying in Almunecar. There are also a bunch of other really nice people.

 

Patrick and Mary, Irish, of course, were just behind me, and Darrin and Saundra next to them. Patrick, in a thick Irish voice I personally find amusing, immediately did introductions all the way around. I told him my name was Mike, and he boomed, "Ah, Michael! That's a good Irish name!" I didn't have the heart to tell him my last name. Anyway, Patrick is one of these guys who knows everyone, is friends with everyone, and is going to be friends with you whether you like it or not! Sort of reminds me of another Irish buddy of mine...Jerry O.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 127259

 

 

 

Thursday January 11th

 

Torremolinos, Spain: Chatted with Darrin and Saundra a bit about their trip to Morocco before they headed out and then just had another good day of vegging out, walking around town, and hitting the internet cafe.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 20e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 4e internet

Odometer: 127259

 

 

 

Friday January 12th

 

Estepona, Spain: Being Friday, I wanted to find a nice place to go out for the evening and this place wasn't really happening. However, I remember, the not too distant, Estepona as being a great little town packed with bars, cafés, discos, and other live music venues, so headed out.

 

I wound up parked next to the marina...just like last year, and shortly after I arrived, Patrick and Mary pulled in as well, invited me over for a drink, and showed off their new laptop. They just got it and are still learning how it works, so I promptly deleted their favorite game, Who Wants To Be A Millionaire? Opps! :-) It is not really totally gone, but just difficult to install from disk to computer because of the copy protection. Sort of a fun game, but you have to be a Brit to "get" most of the questions.

 

Ultimately I headed out on the town, but wisely (for once) didn't drink. Wound up only spending 5e on water at a few places, but still never made it home till four in the morning. This is a REALLY fun town!

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 70e

Supplies: 0

Misc:

Odometer: 127342

 

 

 

Saturday January 13th

 

Estepona, Spain: My stupid basil is impossible to keep healthy and I think I finally found out why. Mary has a great little book, entitled HERBS which suggests planting it near mint (I have them in the same pot) is not good because the mint attracts bugs AND has an incredibly invasive root system. Hmmmm.

 

I decided to make a bit of a greenhouse out of a five liter bottle and grow some basil from seed. in the next few weeks, as that is sprouting, I plan on eating what basil I have left, tearing out the mint, and then replanting the basil sprouts.

 

Other than that bit of gardening, I was too sleep deprived to do much of anything.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 2e internet

Odometer: 127342

 

 

 

Sunday January 14th

 

La Linea, Spain: Thinking I was about to say goodbye to Patrick and Mary, I grabbed a shot of them filling water and doing laundry (cute technique!), but they then decided to follow me out to Gibraltar and invite me over for an evening of Indian Curry, wine, and board games. A really fun night!

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 127392

 

 

 

 

Monday January 15th

La Lina, Spain: Most reasonable people would find it odd that someone traveling throughout Europe would be interested in going to a British grocery store, and, with the rows and rows of white packaged bread and unlimited stacks of baked white beans in a watery tomato sauce, I can mostly understand. Fortunately, however, they also have Thai Red Curry paste, coconut milk, cheddar cheese, and mint cream cookies. All difficult to find in "normal" Europe.

 

Additionally we (Patrick, Mary, and I) got in a bit of internet, was able to get a duty-free bottle of Irish Whiskey, enjoyed a bimble, and had a late lunch of greasy fish and chips with tartar.

Once back at camp (five min walk from the border to parking, with H2O, at Playa del Castillo) our grease-bomb of a lunch was still with us, so we skipped dinner and joined Gunter, Maria, and Jim for a whiskey, whisky, and bourbon tasting on the promenade. Five year old Florian, after getting his bath, was the only one in bed at a reasonable time.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 67+3+14

Supplies: 0

Misc: 2e parking, 2e bus, 2e internet, 2e post+card

Odometer: 127392

 

 

 

 

Tuesday January 16th

 

Tarifa, Spain: Being a bit cloudy this morning, I was ready to move on quickly, but did want another couple hours in Gib to get my belt repaired. Headed in with both the Irish and the Germans this time and we were lucky enough to be on the runway when the landing alarms went off and they shut it down...to pedestrians and ground-based vehicles...as an Iberian Jet came in for a perfect landing.

Had another nice bimble around town, was able to get my belt repaired, enjoyed a nice picnic lunch Mary had prepared, picked up a bottle of mandarin Vodka...since our group managed to vaporize the Irish Whiskey I got yesterday...and then wandered back across the airport border to our MoHos.

 

I was ready to flash out of there, and so were my new Irish buddies, so we headed out together, wasted a bit of time searching for GPL since they are empty, realized, once again, that it is NOT available in Spain, since the laws of physics simply do not apply here and they can/will not fill any bottles.

 

It was after dark when I was able to finally lead them into the beach-side camping area I had used back in '05. It's really a great spot!

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 51e for 58l at 127395/467km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 25e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 3e belt repair

Odometer: 127451

 

 

 

 

.

Wednesday January 17th

 

Tarifa, Spain: After a great sunrise, I drove the few clicks into town for some shopping. It has been a while since I've dug out the BBQ and this beach is perfect for it. As I was getting things going, a few other campers decided to swing by for it as well. Lots of food, lots of wine, lots of great Irish jokes, and generally good times as dinner progressed into a campfire and yarn-spinning evening.

 

 

 

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 12e

Supplies: 3e fire wood

Misc: 0

Odometer: 127465

 

 

 

Thursday January 18th

 

Tarifa, Spain: Chill day. Roger helped me set up a new power point pulling JUST off the leisure battery with alligator clips, and Patrick and Mary headed off to Portugal to get some GPL...now that everything in their freezer has thawed.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 127465

 

 

 

Friday January 19th

 

Cabo de Trafalgar, Spain: Last night I popped in a DVD in addition to doing a bit of computer work, to test the new power plug for a drain off my starting battery. No drain, so it is PERFECT! Roger wound up giving me the plug since he did not need it. Additionally, Martin gave me a meditation CD that I will have to check out now that my computer can be powered!

 

I really seem to meet a bunch of good people in almost every location I wind up camping.

 

Said goodbye in the early afternoon and then wandered toward Portugal...although I only made it a very short distance before parking up on a nice, warm, sandy spit leading out to Cabo de Trafalgar with it's lighthouse.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 7e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 127553

 

 

 

Saturday January 20th

 

Cabo de Trafalgar, Spain: Was planning on hitting the town in Sevella, but liked this too much. Warm, sunny, quiet, and friendly people. Vegged the day away with a book and some music...now that I can use my Comp with reckless abandon.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 127553

 

 

 

Sunday January 21st

 

Castro Mariam, Portugal: Heavy, moisture-laden, fog helped me decide to get out of dodge this morning so I spent a few hours driving into Portugal. Stopped in Castro Mariam at their community "Laundry Basin" which has free fresh drinking water, free access to the laundry basins, free clothes lines for drying, and .13euro hot, and high pressure, showers. About 100 yards away is a large car park welcoming of MoHos.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 5.5e

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: .13e for a shower!

Odometer: 127871

 

 

 

Monday January 22nd

 

Aldeia Nova (near Adam and Eve), Portugal: As I am pulling out this morning I meet up with Patrick and Mary again...in fact, Mary tried to run me off the road until I recognized them! As the saying goes, with friends like these...!

 

We head over to the communal fountain to top off our water, hit Lidels for some groceries (which are noticeably MORE expensive than Spain!), stop into to The Blue Elephant for some GPL (Propane is widely available in Portugal, but the Spaniards don't have it figured out yet)  and then head out to the beach.

 

This beach camping area is about 100 meters west of the Adam and Eve site I spent one night at in '05, has a couple of restaurants on either end of the sandy parking lot, and a very nice treed area behind the dunes if you want more protection from the sun and wind, in addition to a little more privacy.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 36e

Supplies: 13.5e for 22l of GPL

Misc: 0

Odometer: 127882

 

 

 

 

Tuesday January 23rd

 

Aldeia Nova (near Adam and Eve), Portugal: After having used my heater (fan) and laptop a bunch last night, and only driving a few clicks yesterday, my leisure battery was low so I decided to take a drive into Spain to charge it. I also wanted to fill up on diesel, which is .12e cheaper than in PT and saved me 7.5e by just hopping five clicks over the border.

 

Patrick came along for something to do and as I was picking out a great looking chicken, he once again, offered to bone it for me. A butcher in his former life, he has made that offer a couple other times in the past as we have been out shopping, but I typically like to BBQ verses so don't need it done, but this time I took him up on it.

 

An hour after getting home, he had bad news for me...the chicken I picked out didn't have any meat on it. By the feet, he held up a feathered chicken, nothing but skin and bones and a fag sticking out of it's mouth. Yikes! Impressive skill to skin and bone the whole bird without chopping it up or breaking the skin. The Irish love their jokes!

 

A few others came to see what was so funny. The inevitable tin of beer, or glass of wine, was offered and we enjoyed a freezing cold evening...too dumb to go in and too lazy to start a fire. :-)

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 55.5e for 63l at 127902/507

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 6e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 127925

 

 

 

Wednesday January 24th

 

Aldeia Nova (near Adam and Eve), Portugal: Things were going ok until the Dutchman brought out the ouzo! Damn foreigners! After reading and napping the morning away, I finnaly came out in the mid afternoon when the "orange guy" pulled in. They were REALLY good, so I got a couple kilos and then Mary and I walked to the internet cafe

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 1 e oranges, 3e at internet cafe

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 127925

 

 

 

Thursday January 25th

 

Aldeia Nova (near Adam and Eve), Portugal:  A cold front has swept over Europe and the past few nights have been near freezing. This is NOT what I signed up for, nor is the rain this morning. Lots of people are pulling out, and I do the same...not really knowing where I will wind up.

 

I backtracked a few clicks to Castro Marim so I could do some laundry, but three wash basins were dominated by three attractive women...skirts pulled high over their knees as they stomped and kneaded their washing. With lithe bodies, jet black hair, piercing eyes, and a fiery spirit, they firmly told me they would be another hour. With more clothes piled in bags, baskets, and simply on the floor, than I have seen in some department stores, I doubted their timing, but there was no doubting they were firmly in control of the wash basins now. I'm not sure where they were from, but I am sure they were not Portuguese, nor French, like the MoHo out front would indicate, but I like to think of them as Romanians...these three were my ideal vision of Gypsies. I wish I could have gotten away with a photo...

 

To kill some time I headed to the Natural Park near the large bridge connecting Spain with Portugal over the Rio Guadiana for a look. Nice area with some short walks and lots of birds. Would also be a good place to camp for a night.

 

When I returned to the community laundra-mat, my three raven haired beauties were no where to be seen so I jumped in the shower, found it to be cold (probably a good thing at this point!), and then did up a bit of wash before heading back to camp at Adam and Eve.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 7

Supplies: 0

Misc: 2e net/drink, .5e for a cold! shower

Odometer: 127971

 

 

 

Friday January 26th

 

Tavira, Portugal: Once again it is REALLY cold! I left the Adam and Eve site to wander back into Spain and stopped at the Blue Elephant to top off my GPL tank. Unfortunately, it was not totally empty so the guy would not fill it for me. Since the Spanish laws of physics will not allow me to get propane in Spain, I decided to spend another day or two here burning off the last of it.

 

There seem to be a LOT more campers this year, than there have been the past two...or maybe it is just the time of year? Anyway, Santa Luzia was totally chocker blocked so I came back to Tavira to camp in a new (to me) field in town next to a large supermarket and, more importantly, the bridge over the river to the hopping night-life.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 17e??

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 128014

 

 

 

Saturday January 27th

 

Praia de Faro, Portugal: Fun night out, but one in a row is all I can handle anymore. I headed off to Praia de Faro, or, as all the campers know it, Faro Island.

 

The Faro beach is located just south of the airport and is a long strip of sand protecting the coast. A long and beautiful beach filled with ample birdlife. Still being damn cold, I found a spot looking out over the water and hunkered down with a good book.

 

A Brit pulled in and asked if it was ok to park overnight, but how am I supposed to know? The signs say no, but I told him I am going to do it regardless. He and his wife decided to go for it as well. The only problem, which didn't really affect us at all, was when the policia pulled in and tried to roust the occupant of a large panel van. They knocked, and pounded, and eventually climbed up on the roof and tore the vent off of it! He started to stick his head down the vent when he suddenly jumps back in shock. Everyone was watching intently, but I sure as hell didn't know what was going on, but had the fear that perhaps they thought someone had died in the van??? You know, just got old and the heart gave up. Depending on how long ago that happened, I would be jumping back at the first whiff as well.

 

However, it was nothing that dramatic, but now the cops were telling whoever was inside to open the door and she finally did. Not sure why she didn't do it a whole lot sooner, but, after a ten minute talk, the policia headed out and all was quiet in MoHoville.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 13e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 128063

 

 

 

Sunday January 28th

 

Praia de Faro, Portugal: I was still WAY curious about what the police told this attractive young, sandaled, British girl, with the long curly black hair lusciously falling down her thin shoulders and torso over her white cotton skirt...but would not even be kidding myself if that was the ONLY thing I was curious about.


This morning she starts her vehicle and drives around in a circle. She then gets out, walks around the vehicle, gets back in, puts her seatbelt on (this is my indication that she is going to actually be leaving), drives around in another circle, backs up a couple of spaces, gets out and walks around again, and finally drives to the edge of the parking lot. The same edge as me, yet not all that close.

 

She backs into a slot, and then, LITERALLY, takes 15 minutes trying to park the thing! She backs up a meter, gets out to check things, gets back in, puts her seatbelt on, and drives forward .75 meters. She then repeats the entire process AT LEAST a dozen times. I am laughing out loud every time. On a couple of occasions she sits in the van for a while before moving, and I project my thoughts: Don't forget your seat belt! And she puts it on! Just to move a few decimeters! Too funny.


Speculating...I figure she must be about 18 years old, has not driven much, and her strapping young boyfriend has gone off somewhere and should return today, or tomorrow...or maybe he never came back from surfing yesterday, and she just hasn't figured out what to do about that yet. Even her movements are very "young girl" as she inspects the positioning of her van...squatting down and checking how close the undercarriage is to the curb and walkway in addition to eyeballing both axis from all four corners.

 

Ultimately, I decide I should be a gentleman, do the right thing, and assist this poor damsel in distress, so I walk the 50 meters as she studies her van with her back to me. The closer I get the odder things seem. The large size of her camper van camouflaged the extent of her height! She is taller than I am! Thin, great looking hair, but...hmmm, the feet are pretty big, I notice, as I get close enough, but too late now! As they, whoever THEY are, in for a penny, in for a pound. "Excuse me, do you speak English?" Of course I knew she did since she had GB plates. She turned around and in her most girlishly feminine voice, he said, "Yes, may I help you." The five 'o clock shadow was already showing through at 11:00. Damn, ya got me.

 

Anyway, after that traumatic morning, I took a drive to try and find a nearby ridge soaring site, failed miserably and ultimately made it back to camp just as the sun was going down.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink:0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 128127

 

 

 

Monday January 29th

 

Aldeia Nova (near Adam and Eve), Portugal: Got an early start and cruised back to the east, stopped in Monte Gordo for an internet check and found I should have done this a couple days before. My license is ready to go, but I had to confirm how I wanted it sent. That done, I hit the Castro Marin watering hole to top up the tank and ran into Patrick and Mary again. Not sure who is following who!

 

Now being late, I headed back to Adam and Eve, but it was pretty full, so am just a 100 meters away, behind the dunes, and in the trees. Very nice, secluded, private, and quiet with only a handful of MoHos in a HUGE area.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 2e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 3e

Odometer: 128223

 

 

 

 

Tuesday January 30th

 

Aldeia Nova (near Adam and Eve), Portugal: About 03:00 I was thinking the week old stew I had for dinner last night probably should have been tossed out. I spent three hours firing from both ends and when I was actually able to get back to sleep, I was out until after ten. Weak, dehydrated, I walked the beach to the west and did a bit of checking on-line for my package coming from the US.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 1e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 5e internet (RIP OFF!)

Odometer: 128223

 

 

 

Wednesday January 31st

 

Aldeia Nova (near Adam and Eve), Portugal: Met up with an interesting guy this morning. Ferdinand from Germany is in his 70's, but looks closer to 50, and attributes it all to this special rose colored salt mined in Tibet and, of course, pure glacial water.

 

He invited me in for a glass of salt water and a tour of his homemade MAHOGANY paneled (inside and out) van. The van is pretty nice and includes a sauna and a 640 liter fresh drinking water tank only filled with fresh Alps water. A very interesting guy with a 30 year old wife and three young kids from six to 12 years old

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 3e internet shop

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 128223

 

 

 

Thursday February 1st

 

Marzan, Spain: I left camp early so I could get to Castro Marim for a hot shower, but it wound up being cold anyway. Ugh. Hit the net for a bit and then headed into Spain.

 

In Marzan, I an internet cafe open in the evening so I could spend a couple hours working with some buddies planning a Spring visit.

 

Oh, finally found one of those black flexible buckets that Mary uses for laundry. It was only 3e and makes it a TON easier.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 47e

Supplies: 7e wash tub, bucket, cd case.

Misc: .20 e for COLD SHOWER! 2e internet

Odometer: 128351

 

 

 

Friday February 2nd

 

Coria del Rio, Espana: Tried to ck on-line before leaving, but all the shops were closesd regardless of posted hours. Instead I headed through the Parque Nacional Coto de Donana and stopped in el Rocio for some free WiFi. Confirmed a few more things about the Spring visit for paragliding in the Pryneese and was also reminded of my birthday with a bunch of emails. It was yesterday, but I forgot all about it. :-)

 

Took a long drive through the swampy park encompassing much of the delta of the Rio Guadalquivir over sandy and muddy roads as the rain dumped down. Decided to stop just outside of Sevilla for the night and take the tiny ferry across the river in the morning. Hard rain kept me from going out to celebrate my birthday.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 48e for 55l at 128353/452km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 3

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 128492

 

 

 

Saturday February 3rd

 

La Linea, Spain: Incredible rain last night! It is hard to believe that the muddy Rio Guadalquivir is even more muddy, more swollen, and more strewn with debris. I opted out of the ferry to additional dirt roads on the eastern shores and stuck to pavement on a long drive to Gibraltar from Sevilla down A4 and and then SE on 381. Pouring down rain the entire way.

 

On arrival into La Linea, the border town with Gib, there were numerous flooded streets closed by the policia. In fact, I was not able to get into Gib without going through a foot of water. So, I can either walk and get wet, or drive and not be able to park. Even the typical parking lot just on the Spanish side was flooded.

 

It was interesting to see that at least one of the bars was still business as usual, with one guy sipping his drink at a stool and another wading out with scrumptious take-away.

 

The rain let up enough by late evening for me to celebrate.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 3

Food/Drink: 190e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 40 cabs

Odometer: 128727

 

 

 

 

Sunday January 4th

 

Tarifa Beach, Espana: Headed into Gib for a quick net check, and more cheddar cheese, and was lucky enough to see a plane take off. Then headed back to Tarifa Long Beach just north of town.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: ~30e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 3e internet

Odometer: 128792

 

 

 

Monday February 5th

 

Tarifa, Espana: I was hoping my mail from home has arrived at the campground today, so I hit Lidl for some food supplies, checked the ferry cost and schedule to Tangier, confirmed with Aliance that my Green Card (insurance necessary for Morocco) was all in order, and then checked into Torre de la Pena for a day of MoHo cleaning and laundry. No mail has arrived for me.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 22e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 128799

 

 

 

Tuesday February 6th

 

Tarifa, Espana: More laundry and cleaning while I wait for my mail...which, as it so happens, did not arrive today either. Only a week late so far!

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: --

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 128799

 

 

 

Wednesday February 7th

 

 

Tarifa Beach, Espana: Being plugged into 220, I spent the morning backing up photos to send home prior to heading for Africa. Got a lot done, but I need another pack of disks to finish.

 

Torre de la Pena is a pretty nice campground and my pitch was about ten meters above the beach with great views. Good as it is, it is still expensive to stay there for any length of time, so after the mail man ceased to deliver yet again, I checked out and headed back to the free long beach again.

 

Strong rain and wind by nightfall.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 31e

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 128816

 

 

 

Thursday February 8th

 

Tarifa Dunes, Espana: The rain and wind last night were phenomenal and the rocking o' the rig, and whistling of its vents and windows, led to a shitty nights sleep. Even late this morning there was no one out and about as we all cowered in our respective rigs.

 

When the torrential downpour eased to just rain, everyone took advantage and came out to BS. I chatted with Wulf a bit and he mentioned that a  paragliding pilot friend of his is staying at the dunes a few clicks away. From last year I remember not wanting to stay there on account of some guy scamming a euro off of everyone. I also remember it being a LOT more protected from the wind. Both from the cut of the coastline and the trees. I drove over and it was MUCH better, and I never saw the guy scamming the euro...I heard he is still around, though.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 11e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 2.5 internet

Odometer: 128838

 

 

 

Friday February 9th

 

Tarifa Beach, Espana: I introduced myself to Siggy this morning and we decided to go look at the west facing site in Vejer. It was blown out, as we expected when we decided to go look, but the site is really promising! If it had just been a few mph less, I would have gone for it.

 

I have not seen a forecast for a while, but today was pleasant enough, and would have been killer if the wind was lighter. Siggy says it is supposed to drop to 25 kph for Saturday, and then down to 15 on Sunday. I plan on being back here on BOTH days just in case.

 

Hit the net to track my package and found they attempted a delivery...so it should be around by Monday so I will plan on hitting the campground again then.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 45e for 51l at 128889/536km (not filled)

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 9e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 2.5e internet

Odometer: 128947

 

 

 

Saturday February 10th

 

Tarifa Beach, Espana: The f...ing rain is starting to piss me off! No way to get my mail over the weekend, and I can't fly on account of the WX. Oh, and the Siggy forecast of only 25kph was WAY shy of reality.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 2.5 net

Odometer: 128961

 

 

 

Sunday February 11th

 

Conil, Espana: The sky was entirely covered with some low stratus, occasionally spitting, but I still headed out toward Vejer to see about flying. There was no wind when I arrived so I sat around for a couple hours while more pilots began showing up. When it did turn on, it turned on strong, on this west facing 200 (~500 ASL) foot ridge.

 

The launch area has a sharp edge and some bushes which create a bit of a rotor if near the edge. I chose to back off, up the hill, a bit so there would be a better flow. It was still a challenge, however, and I needed to work hard controlling my first couple reverse inflations while laying out my wing.

 

My first actual inflation for flying came up incredibly fast and drug me back a bit, I then let it get just a bit off center and began the inevitable fall to my doom. My mind knows not to "reach out to catch myself" when I have the control toggles in my hand, but my body did it anyway and this sent me careening over the back and being nicely drug through a freshly plowed field.

 

It was painfully embarrassing and I wound up damaging my ego in addition to getting a few dirt stains on my harness.

 

My next attempt, done with an anchor from a local, went MUCH better, but as soon as I became airborne it started raining...and continued, on and off, for my entire first flight. Watching from the air, I was able to see some Norwegian guy do a better job of launching than I did, but he did have his problems as well, and then the local Spanish guy showed us all how it was done.

After about 30 minutes I top-landed for a bunch of ground handling and touch & gos in the compression zone and then another flight of about an hour. Wound up with two "real" flights, a ton of little hops, a bunch of ground handling, and a wet wing after 1.5 hours of airtime and 198feet over launch.

 

Right after my last flight, the rest of the Norwegian group showed up and one of the guys handily took away my prize for the longest drag through the dirt with a 30 meter doosie as a handful of his friends tried to chase him down. Made me feel just a little bit better, while I packed up my gear.

 

Since conditions were too strong for Siggy to fly here, he decided to go to the beach site in Conil that the Norwegians told us about and about an hour later I headed out as well.

 

Conditions were surprisingly light after seeing what was happening at Vejer but Siggy managed to get a few practice hops to the beach.

The bluff does look like a lot of fun if the wind is blowing so I am parking here for the night.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 10e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 129043

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Monday February 12th

 

Conil, Espana: Last night I decided to NOT camp right in the sandy LZ, but instead drove a click to the other side of town where I was in a nice, clean, wind-shadowed, quite, and paved parking area. This, unfortunately meant I could not see launch from my rig...so when Siggy stopped by to excitedly tell me it was working, I changed from relax mode to high gear.

 

As soon as I got around the point I could see the wind was indeed strong enough to fly and that three pilot were already scratching along the ridge.

 

I parked, grabbed my gear, and jogged up the sandy trail to the launch. Siggy was there. Waiting. For his low level of experience, and having had no formal training, he was thinking that conditions were too strong for him. Hmmmm. Maybe? But I was really not in the "teacher-student" mode at this point... even though he has wanted me to give him a few lessons for the past few days.

 

About that time, another pilot, who had just side-hill landed below, came up and warned us that the launch was too strong and that we should launch down on the slope. This was perfect thing for him to say, and did not try to dissuade either of them from going down to step on, make bleed, and then lay their wings upon the succulent ice plant below. Personally, I don't need the reddish-brown stains on my wing so was going to try the main, rotored, launch regardless of conditions. I needed to practice my high wind launches anyway.

 

With the other three original pilots back on the ground, and conditions building, I was thrilled like a ten year old on Christmas morning! Excellent inflation, quick turn, a long pause to kite on the edge, and then a soft step up into the air. The entire ridge for me, myself, and I, as I left the butterflies on launch.

 

I was soon joined by Hanna, the new Czech-Chick-Champ (although the last I heard it was still Petra, whom I had met earlier on in my studies) doing a tandem with Ingrid, the solo German surfer I had met yesterday on Vejer, a German flying a red Nova, and the guy who suggested it was too strong to launch.

 

Hanna and the Blue Guy soon landed leaving just two red wings in the air, for quite a while, as it built to "better pay attention" and "speed bar use required...on occasion" conditions. I headed on a northerly exploration several times, where the ridge was higher, conditions a touch stronger, and the blow-back opportunities less inviting, but whenever it got strong I could cut south, in the slight northerly crosswind, for a quick trip to a softer blow-back, although it never came to that...least for me. Additionally I made some trips south to where the rotor started behind the hotel...dropping a rope for Monica, wading through the ice plant, waiting for conditions, with a forlorn upon her face, each time I passed launch, .

Eventually conditions let up enough for a dozen Norwegians to join the fun, and at least one of them to get drug about 50 meters behind launch on a top landing. My ample airtime (2 hours and 20 min, 141 over launch and 241 ASL), my numerous brushing of the bushes, explorations north and south, and spending the vast majority of my time on top of the stack (I am NOT being cocky! It's just true...although it has less to do with pilot skill than the great sink rate of the Form 3 AND the fact that I was light on the wing), finally made me decide to pack it in for the day.

I packed up, had a bit of a late lunch, and then snapped a few shots of others having a lot of fun. Well, MOST were having a lot of fun...Hanna, who borrowed Monika's glider for a flight, failed to clip-in and  enjoyed more of an "exciting" flight verses "fun"!

 

I was quite a distance away when I noticed her peril, but still managed to get a couple shots. Had she dropped, it would have been a maximum of 75 feet, or so, into soft sand, so she would have survived, but we are all happy she hung on...and we all got to check out her great midriff for the first time...

Tonight I decided to stay in the LZ so I could be ready for flying at the crack of dawn. Ingrid the German girl, the German with the red Nova (he took the first photo shown today), the German Reinhardt, the two Cz-Chks, and I were the only ones staying. I dug out the BBQ and some wine for a relaxing evening...

...although Hanna became interested in an early bedtime so she could relax after her harness ordeal this afternoon.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 8.5e

Supplies: 0

Misc: .5 internet

Odometer: 129045

 

 

 

 

Tuesday February 13th

 

Tarifa, Espana: The wind was very light so I chose not to fly. Yesterday was just too good to screw is up with sand and/or water in my nicely packed glider. Monika, however did talk me into hanging out for a bit while she grabbed one. Got about ten minutes before sinking out, packing up, and then jumping in my rig for the ride to Tarifa she inquired about.

 

The simple plan was for me to drop her off with friends at some free camp in Tarifa that she didn't know the location of...nor could she contact her friends. Ugh! After a few glasses of vino and some

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

internet time, we headed off into the wilderness in an attempt to locate her buds. After an extra 46 clicks on the ol' MoHo engine, after a bit of frustration getting stuck on a steep dirt road, after some nice views of Africa, after a bit of fun, and way after dark, we made it back to town where her friend picked her up after a rescue text was sent out.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 15e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 4e net

Odometer: 129159

 

 

 

Wednesday February 14th

 

Tarifa, Espana: YOU'VE GOT MAIL! Finally I was able to pick up my package at the post office. I headed out of town to camp at Torre de la Pena for some laundry, dishes, and TV ala Denton.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 2e net

Odometer: 129166

 

 

 

Thursday February 15th

 

Tarifa, Espana: left camp and still worked on backing up stuff all day long. WINDY. Parked then moved three times before finding a protected area where my MoHo would not blow over. I will jump the ferry after mailing my backups home in the morning.

 

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 15.5

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 13.5e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 2.5

Odometer: 129193

 

 

 

Friday February 16th

 

Asilah, Maroc: Made the ferry dock by a bit after nine, got my ticket for the 11:00 ferry, jumped in line as number two and walked into the old walled town so I could mail my package home and try to hit the internet. The Post Office took for ever, in addition to making me rewrap my package, so I just arrived back at the dock as they began loading.

 

Unfortunately, just as I was driving on, I noticed a sign saying the max height is only three meters. The top of my Mother-In-Law box is 3.10 meters so I stopped, but the ferry guy just waved me forward. I tried to explain that I was too tall, but he just got pissed and angrily motioned for me to MOVE!. OK, maybe they have a built in fudge-factor, so I started crawling along VERY slowly so as to not damage my rig if it did hit. My slow speed pissed the ferry guy off even more, but once I made it into the boat, I picked up to normal speed with the assistance of his ceaseless whip-cracking.

 

I guess it must have been one of the irregularities of the deck that lifted me just high enough to break the first set of fluorescent lights. I never even heard them go, but the ferry guy had suddenly changed his tune and was yelling at me to stop, and wildly waving in my side mirror as he ran to catch me. I stopped just after breaking one more light. Ha Ha! I hope that bastard is the one required to change them! Anyway, they put me near the stern and will require me to back out upon arrival.

I bid adieu to windy Tarifa for an incredibly windy crossing to Africa...where even the crew were having a difficult time standing without the help of rails. More than one passenger went sprawling on the floor and, from the smell of it inside, I would bet a few were sick as well. Personally, I felt fine, and enjoyed an expensive and tasteless lunch, out in the fresh air of the stern, since I had missed breakfast over the course of this hour long ride which was supposed to be only 30 min.

 

 

Click here to see Section 28: Maroc


 
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