Where's Mike?

Section 29: Iberia in Spring of 2007

Click here to see Section 28: Maroc

Friday April 13th

Tarifa, Espana: Took another steamy shower this morning, which has really helped with the congestion of my cold, and then headed out to see the ancient Roman ruins of Volubilis. A lack of enthusiasm on my part, and a plethora of rain on the part of the Roman Gods, had me changing my mind and driving north. My cold, my shortness of time, and that damn broken water pump encouraged me to press on through the driving rain, and catch the ferry back to Tarifa where I am free camping in the lot near the port.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: ~46.5e for 63.5l at 135235/597km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: ~5e

Supplies: 0

Misc: ~69.5e for last nights hotel

Odometer: 135248

Saturday April 14th

Tarifa Long Beach, Espana: At a bit of a loss for what to do. I have still not heard back from Frank at Dürrwang-Morlein regarding getting me parts for my MoHo. He said he would call and email last week, but never did. I am unable to get in touch with the Hymer dealer in Sevilla and my WAMU ATM card is not working! Having no euro, I needed, and was able to, talk an internet cafe/bar into letting me use their WiFi, sans  purchase, so I was able to call WAMU and get them to pull their head out. Got that sorted, got some cash, got some grits, and headed out to the long beach for a night in the rain.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 42e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 135274

Sunday April 15th

Alcala de Guadaira, Espana: Do I head east or west? Some guy mentioned a MoHo shop just east of me in Algeciras so I spent hours looking for that, before finding a rundown, and closed (well, it IS Sunday!) shop. I took the last of my daylight and headed west and north toward the, non-responsive,  Hymer dealer near Sevilla. Staying in a campground very near the shop and hope to get final directions from them in the morning.

Clear, but VERY windy out of the NE all day long.

Camp Fee from prior night/s:

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 5.5e

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 135553

Monday April 16th

Montellano, Espana: Made an early start to the day and got excellent directions from the campground (forget the name, but it was nothing special anyway) to the nearby Autocaravanas Hidalgo where I was finally able to purchase a water pump. They loaned me their electrical pliers and gave me a couple of wire clips to attach everything. Additionally, I got a  bottle of algae cleaner which I BADLY needed after a month of warm African water sloshing around in my tank and pipes, and then returned to the campground to drain, flush, and treat my water system.

Still early, I headed toward Algodonales to see about some flying. It was incredibly windy, so I was surprised to actually see two pilots in the air over Montellano! Too, I found a hang pilot from Argentina  (who is living in Germany and guiding tours to Spain!) who gave me directions through town, and around/up the mountain, to both the low and high launches. By the time I got there was no one to be seen and it was blowing 30mph!

This NE launch has beautiful views so I decided to stick around for the night and wound up tucking my MoHo into the trees behind a sheltered little ridge and, by late afternoon, the wind had died out enough for a few pilots to make their way back to launch. Unfortunately it was very cross at that stage so none of us got any flying in.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 9e

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 11.5e H2O-Algae cleaner

Misc: 24e on H2O pump

Odometer: 135637

Tuesday April 17th

Algodonales, Espana: This morning the wind was light for about an hour at dawn, and then extremely blown out. A couple of hang glider pilots came to look at it before abandoning all hope of flying. I wound up driving down, through a nice camp/picnic area complete with tables, to Montellano where I was able to flush my water one last time before filling up with the fresh spring water from the town's fountain.

After leaving Montellano, I headed into Algodonales and found a great parking spot a hundred meters behind (above) the bus station in some abandoned "planned housing project" which left paved roads and grassy plots in lieu of the developers dream.

According to one of the women I met yesterday on launch, and who also works there, the JJ bar is where all the pilots meet up for dinner, drinks, and videos. After dinner, I headed in to join the pilots for a drink and to get the, somewhat grim, weather forecast.

The forecast for the morning is light NE, so good back at Montellano, but the chance of rain is also quite high.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 9e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 1.6e net

Odometer: 135680

Wednesday April 18th

Algodonales, Espana: Drove out to the site this morning to check on conditions, but the wind was very light. Soon a couple of tour groups arrive and take some sledders in the drizzle. I choose not to dig out my gear and instead took a nice drive around a lake near Algodonales. On my way back to town I wind

up running out of diesel on a steep incline. It was only about a click away from a station, so was not a problem...and was only on account of the steep hill.

The JJ bar forecast calls for flyable here in town but a chance of rain as well. If it works I will stay another day, else, I am outta here.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 5e for 5l

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 15e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 135795

Thursday April 19th

Pegalagar, Espana: With continued sprinkles and no pilots in the air I decided to blast out of town.

Heading east on 384 I passed through Olvera, yet another very attractive town complete with old fortifications. There are many nice spots in this area and it almost seems like the Tuscan Hill Country with villages topping the hills.

Nearing Granada, I failed to locate the hot springs at Santa Fe, so cut north on A44 to the beautiful hilltop village of Pegalagar near Jaen. It didn't take long to locate the paragliding launch on the col above town, but thunderstorms prevented any flying.

Camping right on the launch, where I think other campers would also enjoy.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 67e for 66l at 135801/566km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: .5e net

Odometer: 136071

Friday April 20th

Some pleasant pullout on the A4 just south of Ocana, Espana: Once north of the Sierra de Alta Coloma mountains, the terrain is relatively flat, uninteresting, and a patchwork of farms. The one odd exception I stopped at is the Tablas de Daimiel National Park.

From the photos and diagrams I think this swampy bird haven is a result of melting snow in the hills providing water to this high table. Oddly, the "bird blinds" were only surrounding rectangular pens with a mesh top, and I am really not sure why they would do that?

Of course no overnight parking was allowed so, after a nice walk-about, I blundered on, and, while searching for a small lake (now dried up) near Turleque I also ran into a funeral procession. It was pleasantly different from those seen in the US, and the only car was the hearse. All the mourners simply walked from the church to the cemetery behind the slow moving car. It took a while, and, from what I could see, pretty much shut down main street. I just parked and waited it out, while one car tried, and failed, to push past them.

Not having found my nice little campsite by some remote lake, I pressed on toward Madrid before finding a pleasant parking area just off the highway. I pulled in for the night and was soon joined by another MoHo.

Just after dark the police stop and warn us of robbers. Regardless, we both decide to stay since it is late and we have safety in numbers.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 51e for 52l at 136231/430km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 30e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 136424

Saturday April 21st

Sardin de Dueros, Espana: Made it past Madrid just after the morning rush hour. It was still fairly crazy, but the ring road helped out a lot...even with that, however, I only "accidentally" found myself on my desired A6 out of town to the NW. I was about 20 clicks out, and about ready for a turn north on 601 over the Sierra de Guadarrama, before reconciling the map with reality.

A long, slow, picturesque drive gave way to rolling hills descending to the vine covered banks of the Ribero del Duero.

In Penafiel, just about the center of the D.O., I wandered around town, checked out a most interesting hilltop castle, and tanked up on maps and brochures of all the bodegas before heading out to the forested Puente Hinojo recreation area. I hope to be able to find a few of them open for a taste and tour over the next couple of days. Cillar de Silos, especially.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 35e for 37l at 136553/323km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 35e

Supplies: 30e vino stock for the guys trip

Misc: 12e Chair for Denton

Odometer: 136749

Sunday April 22nd

Sardin de Dueros, Espana: After so much driving I took a day off and stayed at this peaceful spot in the woods. Puente Hinojo recreation area is between click mark 337 and 338 on both sides of N122, just west of Sardin de Dueros. It's a large and treed area with many picnic tables scattered about...most in use on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, unlike my stop here last winter. There are also some hiking opportunities to be had along the abandoned railroad tracks on the south side of the road and up the Valcorba arroyo, which dissects the area.

Good walk and then a great night as a young group (there were seven of them, and if I ever learned their names, I've forgotten) of nearby picnickers came over to use my grill, since it was already hot. We wound up doing a potluck of various foods and wines till late, and they had to head back home. It was a lot of fun, especially since I have been, perhaps unknowingly till now, avoiding people since I have left Maroc. I was simply burned out on the high intensity people-pressure, and virtual lack of privacy, and needed some alone-time.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 136749

Monday April 23rd

Vinhais, Portugal: Having located Cillar de Silos on the wine map, I decided to track them down. Along the way I stopped at one Bodega and asked what the deal is with tasting. It seems none of the Bodegas actually have a cata, or tasting room, they just sell the wine. To get a tour, or set up a tasting, you need to call ahead and have at least ten people. Strange.

When I was able to locate the unsigned Cillar de Silos I got some guys attention from behind the locked gates. I explained that I wanted some of their '01 Torresilo but they were OUT!!! Finito! No more of ANY year left available and the '05 will not be released for another month or two.

Fortunately, after a bit of rummaging around in piles of crates and cartons, he produced two '01 magnums for me at 38e each. Last year I paid 30e for the standard bottle, which began this wild goose chase, so I was happy to take them both. Eventually he also dug out a few '02s, two '03s, and one '04 labeled for, and committed to, his Puerto Rican importer. That one took a bit of work to pry out of his fingers and, since I was on a roll, I haggled my way into an unlabeled and unreleased, '05 and a barrel taste of the '06.

Although communication was difficult, he seemed to think I was an OK guy and gave me the standard size bottles for a measly 15e (supposed to be 22e) and tossed in bottle of unoaked tempranillo for me to try, gratis.

This sets up a darn good vertical for Rich, Denton, and I to try next week when they show up for some paragliding in the Pyrenees. The '03 is supposed to be even bigger and better than the '01, but the '02, which I got the most of, is supposed to be very smooth and approachable now. We shall see.

I headed down the Duero and into Portugal before detouring into Montezinho Natural Park. Lots of farms and homes in this "natural" park, but few nice little refuges to pull over at for the night.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 58e for 64l at 137087/533km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 258e for wine gifts

Odometer: 137236

Tuesday April 24th

Arvor (Beach North of Porto), Portugal: Long drive through very mountainous terrain before dropping into Porto and heading north, with an idea of completing my circumnavigation of Iberia. Nice spot on the water, but starting to rain...again.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 6e

Food/Drink: 7e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 14e for 24l of GPL

Odometer: 137506

Wednesday April 25th

Punto Requeixo Recreation Area near Serra de Outes, Espana: Hard drizzle, fog, low clouds, and lots of driving, opened the path to a gorgeous coastline periodically enlightened by a ray of sun. I found a beach in the late afternoon where there were many options to choose from.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 59e for 62l at 137664/577km

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 13e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 137779

Thursday April 26th

Fisterra, Espana: Finally! A day without rain! Beautiful morning, complete with short hike through blooming wildflowers and stunning views over the bay, and finishing with locating a stellar campsite near the lighthouse at Fisterra Point.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 137866

Friday April 27th

Lastres, Espana: Ahhh...the welcoming rain is back! Rounded the NW coast of Spain and find myself in an attractive and quaint village on the north coast east of Gijon. Slow going on the tangled roads I choose, but am now in shooting range of getting the guys.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 48e for 52l at 138135/472km

Tolls: 1e

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 138317

Saturday April 28th

Cangas de Onis, Espana: Rolled into with a great little coastal town, Ribadesella, and spent the morning wandering around. Although I had barley made 20 clicks, I was tempted to stay for a day or two. I really wanted to check the Tito Bustillo Cave and check out the Paleolithic pictographs. They are supposedly quite well preserved, high quality artwork, and massive...one of them is one click long! Unfortunately, the caves were closed due to flooding as the result of all this rain and I really felt the need to move on toward San Sebastian where I can collect Rich and Denton on the the first of May.

I didn't really have the time to do the Picos De Europa National Park, but I found myself making the turn inland regardless.....

Cangas de Onis, the main entry point to the park, is initially an attractive mountain resort, but soon the overly touristy aspects began to shine through, and I found myself heading into the park and up toward the lakes where the hiking starts. Along the way, in  first gear for the most part, there were some great meadows, nice forests, precipices to make your heart flutter, and a few glimpses of an amazing snow covered range of mountains! It would be spectacular hiking and climbing if it were not for the pouring rain and low clouds which increased with altitute and created 100 foot visibility by the time I got to the car-park. There were lots of people huddled in cars, campers, and under umbrellas eating lunch and waiting out the weather.

By sunset everyone was gone but me and I was hoping to hide here for the night so I did not have to make that grueling drive again, but the ranger came by and gave me the boot. No overnight parking in the park. Damn.

Back in town I was able to find an internet connection allowing me to Skype with Denton and Rich and confirm they will arrive on the fourth instead of the first. This gives me a few extra days to explore the park...if the rain ever gets around to letting up.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 0

Supplies: 0

Misc: 49e postage, 1e net

Odometer: 138418

Sunday April 29th

Cangas de Onis, Espana: Waking up to more clouds and rain had me deciding to hit the Cyber-café and confirm the long-term forecast for more rain. Zero enthusiasm for making the long steep drive up the hill in this WX, so I took a wander around town, enjoyed (not really) some bad singing and music taking place in the square, and then popped into a bar for a glass of wine.

Supposedly there is some regional celebration happening, and the place was packed. After my first glass of wine, the group which had been wondering in amazement at a visiting American, offered me a glass of Sidra. Sidra is an off-dry apple cider with a very tart, and a bit yeasty, finish. It is low in alcohol, so can, and is, consumed pretty much any time of the day, by people of all ages. It is also poured from as long a distance as possible and this means the bartender takes your bottle, hoists is as far over his head as possible, and with his other hand, holds your glass as low as possible. He is ALWAYS looking somewhere else as he starts the long pour past his head, and adjusts accordingly to where a good 50% is splashing into your glass. The rest goes everywhere else. When I asked why, my new friends just said it was tradition, but I think the aeration may actually make this gack more palatable.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 5e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 1e

Odometer: 138418

Monday April 30th

Arenas de Cabrales, Espana: The Picos de Europa range is a  small range cut into three major peak areas divided by the Sella and the Cares Rivers flowing to the north and dropping dramatically to the sea. Less-so to the south.

Today I drove up the Cares valley before hedging bets on Sotres. Sat in the rain again. Ugh. I am willing to give it one more try tomorrow to see about a nice hike in this wonderful park.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 7e

Supplies:

Misc:

Odometer: 138436

Tuesday May 1st

Cangas de Onis, Espana: The great morning WX had me starting early on a hike forecast to take a good five hours. The Rio Cares Hike can also be abbreviated to about three hours, but is much more rewarding doing the whole thing! Wildlife...in addition to a bit too much stock, countless waterfalls, spectacular mountain views, interesting tunneling for the trail, which runs along a very old canal system, and a relatively easy, and well maintained, trail makes this a must-do hike for almost anyone finding themselves in Northern Spain.

I had never heard of the Picos de Europa, Spain's oldest national park, before I arrived in the area, but just about every European outdoor adventurer who enjoys kayaking, rock climbing, hiking, backpacking, sailing, backcountry skiing, or camping will know of this incredible location.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 0

Food/Drink: 3e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 138532

Wednesday May 2nd

Sopelana, Espana: I said goodbye to the improving weather in the Picos de Europa and headed for Bilbao and beyond. The weather was windy, but nice, and a stroll around town was worth the price of admission. I saw the Guggenheim, but choked at the 15e to get inside the 32,500 square meter avant-garde monstrosity of limestone, titanium, and glass so instead headed north to a coastal flying site I had heard about near Getxo.

When I arrived, the local instructor was kiting after already canceling his class on account of cross and trashy air. The forecast is for it to come on tomorrow afternoon and also start raining. Should be better on Friday.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 53e for 56l at 138587/452km

Tolls: .5e

Food/Drink: 6e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 1e net

Odometer: 138794

Thursday May 3rd

San Sebastian, Espana: I stayed just a few clicks from the launch area, but it was raining hard by the time I got back. I decided to hang out for the day in hopes of getting a flight, but set a departure time for 17:00 so I could still get to San Sebastian to meet the guys in the early morning.

Rain lasted till about 16:00 and left everything soaking, but still a couple of guys flew, and more were waiting on launch when I headed out.

Took a few hours to both get to San Sebastian and find the train station without a map of town. Once located though, I learned there was a perfect place right across the street for me to park overnight. Easy for the guys to walk out the door, see my MoHo, and come wake me up. I then headed out for a great wander and tapas at numerous locals till around 23:00.

Camp Fee from prior night/s: 0

Fuel: 0

Tolls: 4e

Food/Drink: 30e

Supplies: 0

Misc: 0

Odometer: 138929

Click here to see Section 30: Rich and Denton Visit