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Where's Mike? Section Nine: Italy
Click here to see Section Eight: Wandering West
Tuesday October 4th
Adriatic Sea off the Montenegro Coast: Excitement for my trip, angst over departures, or that disgusting tortilla I ate for dinner, kept me from sleeping much last night, and, after a chat with my Swiss neighbors who had been to Montenegro yesterday, some thumbing through the Kiwi's Lonely Planet, and very little rational thought...I drove back to the ferry terminal and dumped tonight's Dubrovnik-Bari ticket. I then said goodbye, for surely the last time, to the four Aussies, the Kiwi's, and Nick the Brit.
If for some reason I got stuck at the border for lack of a Visa (Serbia requires one, but I was just not sure about Montenegro?) I would turn and head into Bosnia where I could meet up with Nick in Mostar tonight and then head to Sarajevo in the morning. Not a great plan, but it was a quick design.
I was actually driving quite slowly south, perhaps not convinced this is the smartest move of my life, chillin' with my best CD's, and enjoying the breeze of all five windows being open wide. It was pretty relaxing until I got pulled over for speeding. I was doing 77K in a 60 zone. I really felt like I was just crawling along. Really! Cars were passing me left and right!
The cops make me get out of the car to come look at the radar gun. Yep, it says 77, but how am I to know they didn't just type that number in? 300 Kroner is the fine, payable on the spot. I dig out all my Kroner, that I was planning on spending on non-perishables, and am about 20 Kroner (~US$4) short. Will that do? No. Will you take the remainder in euro? No. They make me drive back to town, find a bank, exchange 20 euro (my smallest) and then come back and give them the rest. What a pain.
As I was paying my 300, they stopped a Brit and got him for 500.
Shortly after the ticket, I uneventfully crossed the border into Montenegro and the roads immediately became quite bad. The worst I have seen so far, with sharp edged potholes that would slow me to 20-30 clicks for long stretches. It was also clear that this is a very poor country from the houses, the vehicles, the kids clothing, and more. The Swiss told me it was very depressing for them yesterday, and I am beginning to understand why.
In Budva, I decide to pick up a couple of hitchhikers. It may not be the recommended move, but they looked ok to me, and were. They are students heading home to Bar, which I had never heard of, but they mentioned it was a ferry port. They also mentioned that Albania is far worse than Montenegro regarding roads, facilities and general security.
Hmm? With this new info, and the slow going, I am starting to reconsider my plan. Maybe I could catch a ferry from Bar to Greece? So, after dropping them off, I head to the ferry terminal and find that the only ferry operating at this time of year goes once a week to Bari, Italy, and leaves tonight at ten pm. After having a late lunch, and thinking about it, I book a ticket. It is cheaper than the one out of Dubrovnik, and only an extra ~US$15 for my own cabin with shower and toilet. For a nine hour trip, I would pay the extra 15.
This overnight ferry arrives a couple hours prior to my the original one I had booked from Dubrovnik, so I figure I will be in the heal of Italy by the time that one even docks, or the traffic gets bad, later in the morning, AND I was able to chalk up another country...not that that was a goal of this trip.
The vehicles need to back into the ferry, and one of the trucks ran into the door as he was loading. That slowed our departure by about an hour, as they checked over everything to ensure it would still safely operate. When we finally did get underway, I watched the lights of Bar fade away, and then did the same.
Wednesday October 5th
Taranto, Italy: I must have been in the shower when the steward came by my room with a wake-up-knock, that was not needed anyway. I was really psyched to hit Italy, and had always planned on spending more time here than in any other country.
The food, the wine, il/licit, loves, the terrain, the art, the piles of old rocks, and so much more have always drawn me to Italy. Mostly the wine, I guess?
Not sure what will actually happen, but my plan is to camp out in the south for as long as the weather, and open campgrounds, hold out, and then park in Tuscany for a long while. Time spent in Florence, Montalcino, Montepulciano, and the general area can only improve ones life.
As for Naples, Rome, Venice, Milan, or the other "biggies", I may swing through, but don't plan on a major stay in the larger cities unless I find myself having a difficult time dealing with the onset of winter.
My start to Italy was a bit off the mark. The ferry was about an hour late on account of that truck hitting the door last night. This put us is a jam with two other ferries arriving about the same time, and that meant that customs was WAY backed up.
I had to laugh to myself as my original ferry from Dubrovnik came in and docked right next to customs. Damn, these guys are making it through faster than I am!
I finally get though, stop for gas, get a few things for breakfast and lunch, and then jump on the highway south. I thought the Aussies were heading west to Naples, so I was surprised when I blew past that same brown van, at about 180 clicks, after 30 minutes on the road.
It was a downpour in Brindisi, so I headed for Gallipoli, which I found to be incredibly unappetizing, so I took the coast road to Capo Saint Maria di Leuca where the Adriatic sea meets the Ionian Sea and Gulf of Taranto.
Even though the weather now looked great, I was not
in the mood for setting up camp for just one night in a desolate
campsite, so I
The walk into the town square for dinner was worth the price of admission. LOTS of people out chatting, playing, singing, eating, drinking, and generally having a great time. Made my evening, after a long day of driving from sea to sea.
Oh, my V-50 is almost ready for its first check-up, so I stopped into the Volvo dealership in Brindisi. They needed to keep the car for two days, and were starting to tell me about the potential extra charges when I mentioned that the regularly scheduled maintenance checks (oil change) are all included in the price of the car. Oh, but we always find something else wrong that there would be a charge for! Instead of mentioning that the damn thing is still under full warrantee, I hit the road.
Thursday October 6th
I hit the west coast at Agropoli, and then head in a more northerly direction toward Salerno and the Amalfi Coast. This beach still has plenty of campsites open, but it's dark brown, clay filled, sand lacks any texture or beauty. Still spoiled for Croatia, I guess, so keep driving.
I wind up driving the Amalfi coast in the hour
prior
The host suggests that I register a bit later so I still have time to set up my tent and walk the 100 meters to the square overlooking the coast. The sunsets are to die for, he says, and he is right.
Friday October 7th
Agerola, Italy: This camp is located in the ruins of some old castle way up on top of the ridge. To get into it, you must drive through the old gate house, which is now the home of the campground owner, and also serves as reception. It is also about 2500 vertical feet above sea level, and Amalfi, but I have heard of a hike that starts from the square, a hundred meters away, and takes you straight into town.
I find the trail, which is actually cobblestone steps, and start my steep descent in the pouring rain. About half way down, I am starting to feel it in my knees on account of the hard stones, and the fact that going downhill is always tougher on the body than up. Somewhere along the way, I missed a turn, and wound up at the sea, about a click from town, with no way to walk the cliffy beach. Another 30 minutes of climbing back up, and then over, put me in the central square.
The town is great for the views of homes perched precariously on the cliff side, the harbor, and the one church/museum in the center, but other than that, it is mostly tourist kitsch. The only thing, other than lunch, and some internet time, I wound up buying was a another postcard for a friend who has been laying on the guilt lately.
With the rain still coming down, I bus it back up the hill and then do dinner in the Hostel area of the campground. Ferdi, a bicycler from Austria, and I, create a potluck of cheeses, breads, pastas, veggies, and some biscuits...in addition to a bit of wine, for a great meal. I have not had any alcohol for the past few days (since my last night in Dubrovnik) so that nice Pinot Grigio really was a tasty welcome to Italy.
Saturday October 8th
Of course it was raining, so instead of setting up camp, I just dumped the car at Camping Zeus, right outside one of the main entrances to the Pompeii excavations, and a train stop, and jumped a train into Naples. The campground has a 16:00 check out time, so I planned on doing Naples today, and then hitting Pompeii in the morning prior to wandering farther north.
Rode the train in sitting with Joyce and Janet, sisters from Mobile Alabama. They were just down checking out Pompeii for the morning and would be back on their cruise ship tonight as it heads farther down the coast of Italy. They started talking about inviting me back to the ship for dinner, but one reminded the other that doing so is against the ships policy. I would be totally up for checking out a big old floating hotel at some point, but would be more excited if it involved a trip through the Panama Canal, or the Inside Passage, and before they could suggest going out somewhere in town, I mentioned that I had a lot to do in a short amount of time allocated for Naples. Maybe next time?
The Museo Archeologico houses the best of the best from the Pompeii and Herculaneum excavation sites.
Of course I immediately had to ask about getting a ticket to Gabinetto Segreto (the Secret Room), not because I knew what is was all about, but because there was a large sign stating you must have a special ticket to get in, AND be accompanied by an adult if under 14.
The friendly woman selling the tickets said the next time was at 14:45. How many tickets do you need? Just one, please. The look of mock shock, combined with her devious smile, as she exclaimed, "oh my, would you like an escort!?", had me wondering what I was getting into.
The Gabinetto Segreto is a collection of erotic material found in the brothels, baths, and taverns of the excavation sites. Hidden behind a grilled gate, it possesses just enough intrigue to make a visit a must.
The large upstairs gallery is also quite good, and filled with murals lifted from the walls and ceilings of the sites. Much of the color has faded, undoubtedly from the blast, and from time, but with a bit of imagination, I was able to see it in it's glory and full color. Easier to do with a view of the courtyard.
After several hours of museum time, I continued my walk around town. It really started to rain hard in the early evening, and I found myself pretty much alone on the sidewalks as finer dressed people than I took cover in shops and archways. I too wound up in a shop when I saw a pair of jeans for only 15 euro. The style I have been seeing all over Europe is baggy! Anywhere from 4-10 extra inches of leg that just bunches up at the bottom, and pulled down a couple inches from your waist. Not as far as I have seen around Seattle, where the top of your pants are down at your crotch, but just a bit low. I had it wrong when I came out of the dressing room, and the saleswoman corrected them with a quick tug. I felt like an idiot walking out, but then looked around, and saw everyone else is an idiot too.
I am now set for getting into the churches of Rome and Assisi, and maybe even in Florence?
Made it back to camp just as it was getting dark, tossed the tent up in record time, just prior to more rain hitting, took a welcomed shower, ate, and crashed.
Roma, Italy: I was at the gates of Pompeii at 08:30 and was happy I was. I just beat the throngs of tourists, unloading from multiple busses, made it through the gate and went in search of a place to get lost. The ruins cover an amazing amount of space, so, even with the numbers, getting lost is possible.
I wound up getting a map of the area, and also renting the audio guide, although I used it little. Pompeii is interesting enough, but, as I found out yesterday, all the best goods are now stored in the museum in Napoli. Walking around the cobbled streets, and peering into the past through various doors and windows, was great fun though.
The stadium, the theatre, the baths, and just the simple, narrow, winding streets were great. I could imagine life here as people lived, worked, laughed, and more...before Vesuvius put an end to it all.
When I got back to camp in the early afternoon, it was nice and dry so I was able to air out all my gear while I made lunch and prepared to move to Rome. Being here just one night made it easy since I did not unload much of my stuff nor set up the BBQ.
I had heard the coastal route between Napoli and Roma was not that great on account of not being able to see, or access, the beaches, (sort of like the beaches just south of Amalfi) in addition to it now being mid afternoon, so I opted for the Autostrada and a fast drive. Once in Roma, it was fairly easy to locate Flaminio Village, by far the most upscale campground I have been to on this trip.
Flaminio Village is massive, clean, and had some brand new bathroom facilities that just make you want to spend more time sitting, shitting, thinking and stinking. Beautifully tiled, toilet seats that automatically raise, and then get sprayed with disinfectant after each use, endless hot water supply for the showers, a cleaning girl 24/7 that is constantly sweeping and scrubbing, and classical music quietly playing in the background as the marble fountain pleasantly gurgles your bladder into submission. In addition, it has a swimming pool, bar, internet connection, restaurant, and is only a three minute walk to the train station across the street.
This first night, I did not bother going into town, but instead started the grill with a couple of Aussies, Nat and Anthony, who managed to put down an entire bottle of Jack and almost as much rum, respectively, reinforcing my generalization regarding the Australasian plate. I did alright, as well. The girls next door stopped by for a quick visit, as well.
Monday October 10th
Roma, Italy: Crawling out of the tent this morning I was treated to mess of bottles, plates, dishes, chairs, and more, strewn around my tent. It was slow going, but I managed to get it all cleaned up before anyone else in camp was awake.
Next up were the girls (two Dutch, one Kiwi, and one from Miami) who were camping right next to me, but wisely choose to limit their participation in last nights get together. With a bit of a giggle, they asked how I was feeling, and I told them fine. Dilution is the Solution to Pollution...so I was pounding back the water as Nat was polishing off that entire bottle of Jack. Supposedly he passed out next to the grill and the girls came over to carry him off to his tent. Being as I was comfortably in bed at that point, I have no recollection of those events.
Nat and Anthony, once they finally got out of their tent, looked like death warmed over, but started to perk up a bit when I told them I was heading into town for a walk about. Anthony has a huge list of things he wants to see, so we decided to head in together and knock 'em down. Besides, a nice long, hot, walk around town would be just the cure for a hang over.
Roma may not have been built in a day, but we sure saw it in a day. First up were the Spanish Steps, which I guess are named so on account of them leading down to the Spanish Embassy. A crowded hangout, and apparently a great place for young Italians to pick up on English speaking women. It was fun, and interesting, to watch that action, and also the crackdown.
When we arrived, the balconies were all packed with fake Gucci purses, Italian shoes, Rolex watches, and other goods, neatly laid out on clean white sheets as touts tried to make a buck. Their business license must have expired, because when the law showed up, they instantaneously gathered their wares in a Santa Claus style bundle and ran for the hills. In this case, the top of the steps, where they would hide out around the corner until the sole police man wandered off for a cappuccino. Admission to this show was free, and was the best part of the steps.
From there, Anthony, our appointed guide and navigator, led us in the exact circle through some narrow streets, and past the Spanish Steps, twice more! We then put the map away, and just started walking in whatever direction we desired. This was by far the best plan, since we traveled past several piles of old rocks all stacked up to make impressive looking buildings.
Ultimately, we found our way out of Italy, and into Saint Peters Square of Vatican City. They have their own postal service, police, and army of Swiss Guards, but it sure still felt like I was in Italy.
We hung out there for a bit, looking at the extensive lines to get inside, and were happy to have worn shorts, so we did not feel compelled to see the inside of the Basilica or the museums.
Feeling hungry, we started another walk back toward where we thought the coliseum may be located, grabbed a bite of food, and then ran into what I feel is the most impressive, and attractive, building in Roma.
Although we just happened upon it, in our search for the Coliseum, the Vittorio Emanuele Monument was on Anthony's to-do list. Built to commemorate the Italian Unification, this marble monstrosity is truly magnificent. The marble used to build it is of an incredible quality, is as polished as any I've seen, and is not supposed to mellow with age. It should retain it's glow for a long time to come.
The guarded Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was at the main entrance near the bottom, the next level up has a huge, almost too true to life, equestrian statue with Vittorio Emanule himself at the reins.
We didn't go into the museum, which we heard is not
that great, but the views from the steps, and balconies, were enough for
us. Also, there are carvings of the 17 sciences high on the ceiling
(behind the pillars) of the top gallery. I took a photo of, what we all
know to be the one true science, Physics, but they were all worth gazing
at...mineralogy, astronomy, chemistry, medicine, and more.
Catching our first glimpse of the Colosseo in the fading light, forced us from the Vittorio and we headed that way. We were just able to get there prior to closing. A very impressive work and probably my second favorite of the day. The holes you can see all over the building are not designed for pigeon housing, but were caused when the marble was removed.
They are in the process of rebuilding part of the floor, which was sand covered wood, but the vast majority is exposed, so you can see the inner workings of dens and passages below the "playing" surface. Interesting to consider how many people died here for King and Country's amusement. Lots of history.
When we got kicked out of the Colosseo at closing, we jumped the metro back to our train, and rolled into camp for another BBQ. Justine and Aaron (Kiwis) joined us, and Nat managed another full bottle of Jack on his own!!! I think I would have died had I tried.
Tuesday October 11th
Roma, Italy: The rest of the BBQ Crew were still in bed late this morning as I decided to walk along the river into town. I first headed over to the train station, where I saw one coming a mile away, but too close to waste the time going down and under the tracks in the pedestrian tunnel. I jumped onto, and then jogged across, the two sets of tracks, to a howling whistle serenade.
Ok, this guy is not happy about me walking over his track, so I sort of fade to the back of the landing on the other side. Instead of him pulling up to the normal stopping point, he stops so the head car (not really an engine) is even with me so he can give me an Italian Tongue Lashing before fully arriving in the station. I am sure the others enjoyed it, but I lost most of it in translation, and hope my next ITL is more enjoyable.
Two stops later, I bailed for a long walk. Since I had seen all of Roma yesterday, I intentionally left my camera back at the camp and was happy with not having to think about it.
Back home, I skipped the BBQ for a plate of pasta and sautéed veggies. I wanted to blast in the am, and the BBQ tends to create late nights. Duh. Regardless, the Aussie's stopped by with pizza and a hello.
Wednesday October 12th
Perugia, Italy: Since my car is now past the 7500 mile mark, I dedicate a day to getting it sorted out. I am pretty sure the only thing involved in this check up is a lube and oil, but having not seen any Jiffy Lube's in the past four months, I figure I would get it into Volvo. Additionally, all these regularly scheduled services are covered in the cost of the car. I could also talk to them about my left rear window that does not always operate correctly (bad chip?) and the noise from the right front tire when turning tight and breaking at the same time.
I left Roma, not wanting to have to drive into the chaos for that Volvo dealership, and headed for Terni, which is a largish city on my route to Assisi. I asked at a gas station about the location of Volvo, and the very helpful guy, dug out a map and gave me very specific directions. Yea, this is going to be a snap! The five minute drive took me about 30 on account of missing a few turns, due to road destruction, and then, when I finally arrived in the industrial section of town, with rows and rows of dealerships, it took me about an hour find someone who let me know there is no Volvo dealership in Terni. Helpful guy, just not so knowledgeable.
I learn that the closest is in Perugia, which is also on my way,
and I wind up arriving during that 12:00-15:00 time period where
everyone is out enjoying a bit of lunch, some lovemaking, and a nap. OK,
I could appreciate all three of those as
Back at the shop, Marco, the only mechanic that speaks English, lets me know he can take care of my car the first thing in the morning.
Since I did not want to spend more than a night in Perugia or Corciano, I opted for a local Hostel. About the same cost as my average campsite, and an option I will exercise more as winter rains set it, and the campgrounds close.
Thursday October 13th
Assisi, Italy: The guy in the bunk next to me was in bed early last night, and was up before the sun. As quiet as he tried to be, the general disturbance helped get me going as well. I enjoyed the simple breakfast, included in the price of the hostel, and was able to arrive at the shop by 08:00, thirty minutes prior to opening.
By 08:30 my car was being taken in, and Marco was doing its first regularly scheduled maintenance, in addition to checking the wheel noise, and window problem...the only other problems I mentioned. However there are two other minor issues that I would love to resolve at some point: 1) The wiper fluid runs down the back window when I really punch it, and: 2) I have had about two drips of water inside the drivers window when it is REALLY raining hard.
He was finished by 11:30, of course, since lunch was just around the corner. His diagnostic check could find nothing wrong with the computer chip and/or window, and he never heard any noise on his test drive. So the oil change took about three hours and the bill was only 226 euro (~US$270)!!! Oil Can Henry would be turning in his grave...not at the cost, but for not having the balls to charge that much!
I saw the shop manager making up a bill, and was almost to the point of just making life easy and paying it. Would have too, if it was in the US$30-40 range...something typical, but the US$270 would have made me choke, had I not been laughing so hard! A couple phone calls later, and me digging out my contract with Volvo, had them forgetting the bill (by the look on his face, I am darn sure that at least one of them knew they were not supposed to be charging me) and sending me on my way.
The wheel noise happened again as I was leaving their parking lot, and the window failed to operate properly when I pulled into my campground earlier this afternoon. I hope they put the oil cap back on.
Anyway, I set up camp in Assisi, and headed into town...about a one click walk from the campground. I had heard from Justine that you could do the whole town in half a day, and I concur. The main attraction of Assisi is the Basilica di San Francesco, the most impressive display of art I have seen outside a museum, and an excellent display of compromised ideals!
Although the Basilica is not as wildly fancy as many in Europe, with it's frescos covering almost every speck of wall and ceiling space, it still strikes me as a bit too much for a monument to Saint Francis.
St. Francis, one of my new idols, was a booze and lady hound who finally wound up in jail, where he found religion, abstinence, and poverty, as a new way of life. Ok, so I may not be 100% on track with the new and improved St. Francis, but he is still a pretty good guy, who told the pope, and church, to go piss up a rope, as he renounced his inheritance, and openly, and negatively, commented on The Church's obsession with the collection of money and power, mostly stolen from around the globe.
Today, people with nice portfolios, cold cash, and fine Italian shoes, flock in droves to see his tomb, and admire the man who embodied Christ's message to the Apostles of, carry no purse, no scrip, nor shoes, as you head out and do something worthwhile in this world
No photos allowed in the Basilica, but I am sure St Francis would forgive me for sneaking a few...except for the fact that I actually own a camera. Assisi is worth a stop on anyone's trip through Italy.
Assisi, Italy: After getting some laundry out, I took another walk into Assisi, and up to the top fortification. The views were nice, but more impressive from the valley below. These were taken from the paragliding LZ I found.
Unless the flying is spec, and looks to stay that way, I will head out for Tuscany in the morning.
Saturday October 15th
They asked, with sign language, if I was a pilot and wanted to fly. Two thumbs up!
No problem, just follow them up the hill to launch and we will see how conditions are. Cool.
Half way up we stop off at one of the many convents
to talk to one of the nuns, and give her a nice fleece jacket. Not 100%
sure what that was all about, but I
After that brief stop, we continue up, way up, to the 3500 foot launch area on top of a rounded hill that takes every direction. Today we are on the West facing launch, and it is still early in the day. Regardless of those facts, the wind is coming up light, and I am itching for a flight.
I ask about a trail, or taxi, or something, to come
back and retrieve my car, but Plaid Man points out a truth instead. That
is not important now...what is important is to fly! And he's Right.
I could wait, but am assuming those guys are coming
back up for their car, and I could use a ride. While Plaid Man is still
working the first ridge line I launch. I go slightly left, where PM told
me about a house thermal, instead of heading off to the right like they
both did. Almost immediately I bump into some OK lift. Not enough to
take me high, but just enough to almost maintain. I can climb about 50
feet on each pass, and I loose
As I get down to the level of the first ridge line, I decide I should head farther off to the north and explore the next house thermal the boys were working earlier. As expected from their flights, it was not as good as my first one, but did extend my flight another ten minutes.
I was watching for that 1800 foot mark...the mark PM told me I should head to the LZ at, but still had lots of cushion so headed farther north to a treed ridge line closer to Assisi with some nice south-facing slopes.
Justine mentioned the best views of town are actually from the valley, but I didn't mind this one at all.
I was down to about 2500 feet now and making some nice passes over a huge group of Japanese tourists walking up the road, and was met with great cheers and waves from the crowds. I was surely the most photographed object of their day, and I don't mind being objectified.
A few tight turns, yells, and waves brought me to about 2200 feet so I headed for the valley.
It was all pretty quiet until I got over the LZ, and the adjoining brown fields, and I started to climb again. I arrived at about 700 asl, and then climbed out to about 1200 asl before spiraling down, nervous about missing my one ride up the hill.
Indeed Marco and Plaid Man were planning a retrieve, and I was welcomed along. They were talking about meeting back at the LZ around 15:00 in order to do another round. Now I know the Italian's love to snag a few hours for lunch, and the such, but it boggled my mind that they were even considering not flying again. Conditions were just starting to turn on!!!
No, as Plaid man explained, there is a cold front coming for the next few days, and it will not be until late afternoon that the conditions are good again. Maybe not even then? He was right. When we got up top, the wind was over the back, and there was a bus load of 30 pilots standing around kicking rocks. Marco and Plaid Man left, but I decided to hang on top and see what happens...after all, if it is flyable from the other side, I would be game.
I followed the PG tour bus, as it herded a lone, terrified, cow down the fence line, to the next launch.
The high pressure, and associated cold front, will bring some stiff NE wind to the whole area over the next few days. Flyable, but not great. I decide to go drink some Super Tuscans, some Brunellos and some Nobilos instead.
I drive off to Montepulciano and initially try to find an internet connection and upload some of my junk/journal from the past few days. I find a spot, and as I am waiting in line hear the crabby Italian say "not possible" to the lady asking about WiFi. Not a big issue for me, since Denton set me up to use either WiFi or Lan, and both are advertised on the window.
"Not possible. Give me your passport and you can use one of these computers." Crabby sure isn't being very helpful, but maybe the system is just down. I decided to go camp, and then check back the next day.
I find Agricampeggio Il Casale, somewhere between Montepulciano and Pienza, enjoy a great chat with Dana, a German woman camping out with her two kids, and then set up my tent under the trees of a terrace at the most beautiful campground setting I have seen on my trip thus far.
Not wasting much time, I shower, have the owner call me a cab, and head into Montepulciano for some wine, some dinner, some dessert, and some very fun times enjoying this highest, walled, hill town of Tuscany.
Sunday October 16th
Near Montepulciano, Italy: The view from my tent this morning, is just as spectacular as it was last night when I arrived. Again, this is by far the most visually appealing campsite I have stayed in on my entire trip. I plan on spending time here until the WX brings a change, and then even returning after that.
Today I decided to check out Montalcino, so hopped in my car for the drive forecast to take about 45 min. I was cruising along pretty good, and not minding the light traffic, which I considered to be pylons adding texture to the drive. One of the pylons, however, wound up being a sporty Porsche that I enjoyed quickly passing on a short straight away.
A bit later, when I check my rear-view, the Porsche is on my tail. The next chance I got to pass, whichever plug happened to be in my way at the time, I took. The Porsche followed when he could and the game was on! Of course I had the advantage of being in front, but he had the advantage of massive torque, which he needed in order to catch up.
We were having a great time, as evidenced by the grin I could see on his face, and the ashen-look of his female companion. I wound up closing all my windows to improve performance, and cut down the noise, as we bounced from 20 to 110 mph on these roads, obviously designed for fast/fun driving. Lots of corners, short straight sections, few road-side obstacles blocking the vision.
He followed me right into Montalcino and parked next to me. Grinning, we got out, gave each other the thumbs up, and pledged to drive home much slower, after an afternoon of wine tasting.
Super-Tuscans were on my to-do list today, and I was able to find a great little wine bar that was pouring them by the glass. Talked them into smaller pours (~1oz, instead of a 4-6oz glass) so I could taste all five of them, in addition to a couple of Brunellos. Knowing I would be driving home, I ordered some bruschetta, a cheese and meat plate, and a green salad, as well.
I am not sure what the legal limit is here in Italy, but some European countries have zero tolerance...and spot checks to enforce it. This was my first time drinking and driving since my trip began...and even though it was less than two glasses, over a couple hours, with food, I took an extra hour walking around town as I drank a liter of water prior to my drive home. As I was doing that, I was looking for the Olmaia '99, which was my favorite of the bunch. Was not able to find a '99, but did pick up a '98, which supposedly got four stars to the '99's three. Hope to taste that in the next few days and see if it is worth bringing a bit home.
Oh, I wound up not getting this bottle of Gato Nero, but wanted the shot for Fred and Sam, a couple of hockey players I know back in Seattle. I did get one of the Brunellos, but a '99 verses the '00 shown.
Back on the farm, I had dinner with Reinhardt and Ute. Grilled trout, rice, wilted greens, home made bread, roasted chestnuts, and a slightly sweet dense almond cake were all prepared by our hosts...and it was fabulous! We closed the place down and then watched the full moon as we headed back to our tents.
Monday October 17th
Firenze, Italy: It was much cloudier than expected this morning, and smelled of rain. Before any precip had a chance to fall, I broke camp and prepared to head into Firenze. As I am paying my bill, I find out that I can do a cooking class right here!!! Yep, they offer herb, cheese, wine, and cooking tours on this working farm in addition to just camping and bungalows.
I was already packed, so was heading to Firenze for a few days, but definitely want to make the hour drive back for some cooking and camping. Again, the most beautiful campsite so far, and right in the heart of wine country! I am planning on spending most of my remaining time in Tuscany, Liguria, and maybe on the south coast of France, so I have the time.
Swung by the internet shop in Montepulciano and got the same "not possible" comment when I asked about using my laptop, and, after a drive to Firenze, I now understand why.
In a bold move to bring Italy solidly into the eighties, the Italian Government is banning the Internet, which will surely make Italy the most backward nation on Earth.
One of the first things I noticed when I got to Italy was that I had to hand over my passport as I walked into an internet cafe. The second thing was that all the places that advertised WiFi and Laptop Connections on their windows, did not actually provide either service!? I had sort of figured their system was just temporarily down but, until I had it explained to me in full, I did not realize this is a new event, and a consequence of the London Bombings.
Apparently the London terrorists used the internet to communicate as they were setting up their grand scheme. I have written the proper Italian authorities suggesting that they just ban bombs, instead of the internet, but their response was not as jovial as expected, and my "...flippant remarks are not appreciated at this time, and you would be well advised to keep them to yourself or face the certain consequences of a full investigation." I decided to not reply, since I would have felt compelled to ask about banning phones, or the postal service, as well.
So, they are not really banning the internet 100%, but just making it a requirement to show official documentation, and also make the internet cafes save a keystroke file of everyone using their machines. This log of what you did on the internet must be made available on request to the legal authorities of Italy. I am thinking that Big Brother really needs another hobby, or a connection of his own.
Since it is more difficult to compile said file when someone shows up with a laptop, most internet cafes are forced to simply no longer allow their use...making it nearly impossible to upload any web page changes or send files along with an email. Found a back alley internet cafe here in Firenze that didn't get the memo so I will try to catch up on stuff to upload before the law cracks down.
At least after 911, dubba only banned planes for a few days.
Tuesday October 18th
First off, the view from my campground, despite the
haze, is not too bad. Supposedly the best view of town is from Piazza
Michelangelo right next door,
After it rains, maybe the air will clear a bit more and I can get some better shots.
The walk through the Piazza, down the stairs,
over the bridge, and into town takes about 12 minutes from camp, so is an easy walk, and the people watching started right away.
The best people watching however, happened later in the day when I saw this guy chatting up some American girl as she was walking down the street. She must have been here a while, as she mentioned her boyfriend several times, and finally just ducked into a shop.
The guy, didn't miss a beat. Thirty seconds later he was chatting up the next unescorted woman he could find.
Truly amazing to watch, and I sometimes wish, ok always wish, I had the sober confidence to simply approach a total stranger and try to get her to have coffee, tea, or me. Perhaps I will practice as I spend time in Firenze.
Oh, the price for about the same lunch as I had the other day in Montalcino would have been about 75euro!!! I chose to get a filled Baggett for 2.50 at a snack/wine bar instead. I don't mind spending a bit of money once in a while, but I will pick and choose when I do it. Camping cost, on the other hand, is about average at 15euro/day.
Wednesday October 19th
Firenze, Italy: Another walk around town. No photos, no comments.
Firenze, Italy: So the rain started in yesterday, which slowed me down a bit. It was not really hard all the time...more of a constant drizzle intermixed with heavy showers. Even in the tent, it was starting to be difficult keeping things dry, as much a result of the high humidity as of the rain.
All last night, and this morning, it was raining as well. During a short break this morning, I decided to get going and hit the Uffizi Gallery. I figured the rain would make the lines fairly short, and I am not one to actually plan ahead and get a timed entry ticket. After all, who really knows what they may want to do in the future???
The inside of my tent is still relatively dry, with only a few drips at the top vents, and door tags. There is some moisture under my 9" inflatable mattress though. I try to remember if I wet the bed, but am fairly sure I didn't. I ultimately decided that there is a bit of moisture seeping through the waterproof ground cloth, and the waterproof tent floor, when ever, and where ever, weight is applied.
Memories of Michele from Macao, Krakow, and the very wet situation experienced there, were the only thing keeping a smile on my face as I sort of abandoned ship, by evacuating all non essential sleeping apparatus to the car, "Just in case the wee thing starts to float away!"
After that, I found my way to the showers, and the Uffizi Gallery. Both were great, but I can only comment publicly on the Uffizi, which is superb! There is essentially only one floor to worry about in this small museum...the top one. Took me about an hour to see some great works by Bottichelli, Michelangelo, Picasso, and more. I don't enjoy spending too much time studying, contemplating, or admiring things I am supposed to like...for me, if it evokes emotion, I'll take an extra gaze, if not, I move on.
As I was heading out for dinner and drinks, Reinhard and Ute arrived at the camp. I met, and had dinner with, them at my last camp near Pienza, and Rienhard gave me a few good hints: His favorite wine is Amarone della Valpolicella...and I think I still have a case or two of that very raisonesque '97..., I MUST spend time in Cinque Terre, and his favorite spot in Italy is Portofino.
It was good to see them both again.
So, earlier in the day I was at my favorite cafe, that just happens to have free wireless (Moyo, at 23 Via de' Benci...just north of the Ponti alle Grazie Bridge) and Indiana, a six-one, twenty-something, attractive, blond, co-ed began chatting me up. She was sitting by me and saw a brief video clip of some new Olympic event that Denton sent me, and, being a volleyball and basketball player, had to comment. Anyway, she mentioned that one of the best deals in town for dinner is right here. Just order a drink, and there is a free food buffet to go with it. Several other cafes in town offer the same deal. Being in a university town has certain advantages that reminded me of my time back at CWU.
Anyway, I wound up hitting two places first, serving mostly crackers, bread, and nuts, prior to doing what I should have done in the first place, and going to Moyo for their spectacular spread of pastas, sandwiches, salads, veggies, and more! As for Indiana, she had already booked a train ticket out of town that afternoon for the weekend, but if I wind up hanging around till Monday, I would surely find her here.
The program she is completing is essentially a quarter of screwing off in Europe with dad paying the bills. She didn't need to know any Italian to come over, but is taking a basic course in Italian, along with a couple art appreciation classes that meet a few times a week....SO, Indiana simply needs to sleep in, wander down to Moyo for a little free internet browsing, and chatting with strangers, do the periodic afternoon class (nothing on Fridays, as that may get in the way of the weekend), wander out to a stylish cafe for a drink, free dinner, and a bit of entertainment.
That's a typical day, but she sometimes mixes it up by tossing in a museum, disco, or train out of town for a long weekend. An absolutely brilliant plan, and one I should have considered when I was at CWU. None of these credits transfer over, nor do the grades.
Friday October 21st
Firenze, Italy: Over the past few days I worked on booking a cooking class. It was sort of pricey at 200e including a ride to the location from town, but I figured it would cost me more to come back and do it at some other point. Besides, I enjoy cooking!
After having an early breakfast with, and saying goodbye to, Ute and Reinhardt, I took the 30 min walk down to the prescribed meeting location. With a break in the rain, the views of the the river and Firenze were quite nice. I also saw a scooter crash along the way, and was/am really surprised that does not happen more often.
The one thing I did not see, was the van/bus that was supposed to pick me up. My camera clock said it is 09:28, and I waited until 09:45, but there was no van. I later checked my camera time to make sure it was right, and did see that it is about three minutes slow, but even with that, I would have only been one minute late.
An email to them gave me a response that the van waited until 09:40 and finally left. Oh well, I am better off spending that 200e on some other form of entertainment.
Anyway, you guessed it. More rain for the day. Looks like Sat is supposed to be better, and I am thinking of packing up, and moving out, if I can get half a ray of sunshine between the rain so I can break camp when it is not dumping down on top of me and my gear.
With all the water flowing, I finally broke down and trenched around the tent, in addition to dredging some canals to drain the standing water under the vestibule. This, in addition to several towels full of large gravel, sprinkled at the door, seemed to help to a minimal degree.
Saturday October 22nd
Monterosso, Italy: I was laying in my tent listening to the rain pour down when something funny happened. It stopped. I pulled the plug on the mattress, stuffed my sleeping gear in the bag, jumped out of the tent, and began tearing down camp. The fly was soaked, the tent was damp, the ground cloth was coated in mud, so everything went into separate plastic bags. The water in my shower ran brown for a long time, before I was clean, fresh, and ready to walk through the mud to my car.
Was not 100% sure where I was heading, but knew this system was coming in from the west, so, my thinking was drive into it and hopefully hit the trailing edge a bit sooner. Cruised over to Pisa, decided to skip it in this rain and fog, and kept heading up the coast. I had heard from Reinhardt that there is a great camp ground in Levanto, just past the Cinque Terre so made my way to that, saw the rain coming down, thought about my soggy gear, and decided to head back into the first village of the Cinque Terre, Monterosso, and grab a hotel instead.
The asking price for a the three star Punto Mesco was 99e, but the guy brought it down to 79e when he found it was just me. I frowned as I was considering having to bring my gear in to dry out, but am just about to say I'll take the room, when he says I can have it for 69e. Hmmm. Now I am thinking I better look to see what I am getting if he is willing to drop it so quickly, so ask to see the room, and he says OK, you can have it for 50e. I had already been sold at the 79-99 range, but I still want to see the room to make sure I can dry my gear.
It was perfect, small, clean, and a patio that is partially covered. I hang my gear, and then head into town for a walk. Popped into a small wine bar and met a CA gal and her Irish friend, who wound up buying me a drink and inviting me over to talk.
Danielle looks like she is about 19, but is 30, and an artsy poet. Very contemplative. As the evening rolled on, she wanted to give me her and Chris' contact info so took a small scrap of paper and doodled a drawing on one side, and contact info on the other. I feigned pain at not getting a poem so she obliged. She was wondering about a starting point when Chris, who was eating the bar corn chips, suggested that as a start. Ok, perhaps the wine helped choose that starting point, but it seemed to work.
A couple minutes, and a bit of brow furling, later I got...
Sunday October 23rd
Monterosso, Italy: Definitely one of my top ten days...after a great evening with Chris and Danielle, including partying way too hard, and getting way too little sleep, I woke up and decided to punish myself with a hike.
The classic reason most visitors come to the Cinque Terre is for hiking between the villages. This seven mile hike typically takes people around 4-5 hours to do. Perhaps a bit longer with a stop in the villages along the way.
You can do it in either direction, but I chose to
start in Monterosso and head for Vernazza (1.5 hours and 142 meter max
ASL), Corniglia (1.5 hours and a 207 meter max ASL), Manarola (1
hour with a gentle loss of altitude), and finally arrive in Riomaggiore
(30 min level walk). To enter the park trail system will cost you 3e for
the day and you will find a mixture of
Even after last nights festivities, I was feeling pretty good, and hiking fast. The fast hike soon turned into a run of much of the trail. By the time I got to the top of the first section, my pack and I were drenched in sweat, but I was still feeling great. I passed dozens of people, going both ways, and welcomed the periodic section where passing was not possible, so I could catch my breath.
I did the first section in 35 min (about 1/3 the forecast time), the second section took me 46 min (about 1/2 the forecast time), the third section took me 19 min (about 1/3 the forecast) once on the path, but I spent about an hour searching for a beach prior to jumping on the trail. The last section took me about an hour (twice the forecasted time) because I was slowed down by a beautiful, and rocky, beach (no swimming, just gazing) in addition to several murals in one section of tunnel just before Riomaggiore. For the 3e entry fee, this was by far my favorite museum on the trip! :-)
The towns are all linked with a train that seems to run every 40-60 minutes, and also a ferry system that runs every hour in good weather. I think if someone did not have the time to do it all, I would highly recommend doing either, or both, of the first two sections, in addition to the quick and easy last section. The trip between Corniglia and Manarola goes along the train tracks, and gives sort of an industrial, and dirty, feeling, so, in my opinion could be skipped if short on time.
I had a bit of lunch in Riomaggiore, then hopped a train for Corniglia, where I enjoyed some gelato, then hopped another to Vernazza for a glass of wine, and finally made it back to Monterosso for a shower and quiet Sunday dinner...off the beaten track...in some back alley...on a tiny, and secluded, terrace...prepared and served by someone's grandmother who spoke not a word of English.
A perfect day.
Monday October 24th
This was pretty extreme however, kept me awake regardless of being inside, and was the main topic of conversation over the breakfast table. That and some other hurricane is brewing in the Gulf of Mexico, and heading, now, for FL. My main problem was that it soaked my tent that had been mostly dry, and hanging under the eves, last night.
The forecast is better for the next few days, I am tired of spending the time in, or cash on, hotels, so I pack up and head out. Was not sure where I was headed, but was really wishing I could do another hike, and swim, in warmer, clearer weather. When I hit Levanto, about a 20 min drive away, I decided to set up camp and stay a while.
Campeggiio Acqua Dolce is a great little, clean, environmentally friendly, campsite located right at the trail head for more exploration along the coast.
As I pulled in, everyone, and I mean EVERYONE, was wringing out sleeping bags, hanging up clothes, wiping mud off tents, and generally trying to dry out. Still being wet from my stay in Firenze, and the storm last night, I joined the party and began enjoying the sun that was now clearing the clouds.
After getting camp chores on their way, I walked around town and went shopping for an evening BBQ. It had been a long time since the weather was good enough to crank the grill, and I am happy it finally worked out. Grilling is SO MUCH cheaper than eating out, and I am convinced the end product is better, than most of the restaurants.
Interesting to note...on my morning walk, the streets were packed, but on my walk out, around 14:00, they were deserted.
Met a couple of Brits, more Aussies, and Wulf, a German, who joined me for dinner and some vino. He plans on leaving for a 2-3 day hike up in the mountains, in the morning, and I plan on a few hours of hiking, and swimming, if I can find a nice quiet beach in the sun.
Levanto, Italy: After yesterdays rest day, I was expecting to be quite a bit more sore than I was. Actually felt pretty damn good this morning, but would have been doing another hike regardless. The soreness may kick in in the morning?
It is another beautiful hike, with a higher climb, more sweeping views, cliff faces closer to the sea, longer, yet not always sharper, drops, and much better weather. It was great, and has me strongly considering sticking around for another day or two.
Again I started slowly, but quickly built to sort of semi-run many of the trail sections. This trail, not technically being on the Classic Cinque Terre Route, was much less crowded, and the going was fast. When I did meet people, it was typically just one or two serious hikers out to explore, verses the larger groups I encountered a couple days ago.
I did come across one group of about six, and, as I was passing, recognized them from my hike between Monterosso and Veranzza. About that time, one of them recognized me as well, and said something like, hey, it's the Running Red Pack, referencing my Lowe day pack.
Quick hello's, and I was moving fast again, up a tunnel-like section of trail through the brush and trees.
Thirty minutes later I was meandering into Monterosso for a look at some blow-holes, a swim off their sandy beach, a view of a strong man holding up a ledge, and the start of some paperback I picked up at the campground in Firenze a few days ago.
On the outside of the bag is a nice note from Juan-Carlos, and Antonia, apologizing for breaking my wine glass. Inside the bag are two new glasses nicely wrapped in colorful paper. I had picked up the Riedel at some wine tasting in Seattle, but could not even remember where. These two glasses, if they last the trip, will always be remembered. Class act for them to replace the glass so quickly, and not a simple task here in a small town.
As I was heading to the can, they pulled in, and began to profusely apologize again, when I said it was all cool, mentioned they did not need to replace the glass, thanked them for doing it, and poured them a glass of wine.
We stayed up till after midnight talking world politics, and more, until I was so exhausted I had to crash.
Wednesday October 26th
I had hoped to check out the local paragliding site,
but by mid morning it started to drizzle a bit in camp, the clouds were
low on the
The weather just a few kilometers to the west was much better, and afforded some nice views of the coastline, and coastal cities. Portofino, however, was a bit of a disappointment. You can tell by the feel of it that the area is only for the rich and famous. Shop after shop of designer clothing, jewelry, and assorted arts & crafts.
I walked along the waterfront, checked out some menus, saw a 12e beer, a 40e salad, a 269e three star hotel, and what looked to be about a 2.5 million euro, fully decked-out, precisely painted, overly perfumed, platinum blond. I no longer have a good reference, so she may have been more? Ultimately though, I realize there is nothing in town I can, nor want to, afford, so head out on the small and windy roads that will take me home to The Cinque Terre.
|
Regardless of the miniscule amount of contemplation
I put into this decision, I had come up with a plan, lame as it may be,
that could be interesting. I would head south into the former Yugoslavia
(screw the possible lack of insurance on the Volvo), through Albania,
and into Greece, where I would be able to catch another ferry over to
Italy in a few days, a week, or whenever.
Every
time I stop the car, several people, from young kids to young adults,
approach me looking for money, or any kind of handout...so I keep moving
slowly south.
I sat on the
dock for about an hour, with my engine off,
and
periodically pushed my car forward a foot or two, never more, as things
were not moving that quickly.
After taking a different ferry,
from a different
country, at a different time, with a different
arrival
time....I wind up being about a half dozen cars behind the Aussies as we roll through customs. I was supposed to be comfortably
swimming somewhere on the heal of Italy at this
point.
decided to head to the toe, making a stop in
Taranto for
the night. Took a cheap four star hotel (Seemed like a 2+ star) with great views of
the Gulf of Taranto, but fairly lame otherwise.
Agerola,
Italy:
After an OK breakfast, I begin heading NW around the arch of the boot and
then cut west on some very small, and windy roads which slow me down a
bunch. No worries, no hurries. A switch does, however, flip in my mind
when I realize that I have really not enjoyed Southern Italy so much. It
may have been the rain, it may have been a poor experience at the Volvo
dealership, it may be that I have only given it one day, or it may be the flat, and fairly vanilla, terrain.
Regardless, I start to wrap my mind around heading north, and then do.
to
sunset on my way to the nearest campground I have been able to locate...
Pompeii, Italy:
Said goodbye to Ferdi, as I was packing up, and then headed off for the Pompeii/Naples area. The drive was quick and easy, so I arrived in the late morning.
Instead I jump off the train
a stop or two prior to them, and start the typical
walk-about I have been practicing on my tour. Came across the National
Archaeological Museum of Naples, the only thing I really wanted to
explore in Naples, and went in.
Sunday October 9th
well,
so I wander up to Corciano to grab a great meal, let
the V-50 do it's job of picking up a bit of the local wildlife, and then recline the bucket
seat for a snooze. I actually feel Italian at this point! :-)
Friday
October 14th
Near
Montepulciano, Italy:
Packed up and decided to head down to the LZ I found yesterday. The
timing was perfect, as I ran into a couple of guys just heading up the
hill.
assumed
The Church must own some part of the launch or landing zone, and that
this is a great way to keep the landowners on the side of the pilots.
So,
I grab my gear, and we all set up. I am hanging back, remembering a
micro-meteorology lesson given to me in Czech, in France, a couple
months ago, and see the two Italians only get a few small bumps.
about
30 feet on each of the two turns needed to keep me in it.
The
next launch area faced to the north, and conditions were light. I could
understand a tour taking sledders at this point, but with me needing to
now fly to the other side of some valley I've never seen, not speaking the local
language, and then having to find my way back to my car, I chose to
pass. I still need to get someplace and set up camp, and the someplace I
was considering was still a bit of a drive away in Montepulciano.
Firenze, Italy:
Great weather and a typical walk around town with no real goal other
than to get a feel for town, and enjoy the fresh air. Once the rain
hits, I will try to do a cooking class, museums, and other indoor
activities.
so
I took one from there as well. You can't quite see it, but my tent is
down under one of those olive trees in the first photo.
Thursday October 20th
I
toss back the covers and begin standing up when my feet squish into the
floor of the tent. Yuck, Yikes, and Yemeni! Fortunately there is no
water actually inside the tent, but the dirt and gravel I set up on is
now a gooey mess. I get out and survey the situation, only to find that
the entire campsite is covered in an inch of very fine silt and mud and
water is running out from under my tent. Not good, but not a lot I can
do about it now.
cobblestone
paths, ancient vineyards, lazy cats, colorful stone homes clinging to
the sides of hills, dirt trails, rocky terrain, shear drops to a certain
death, mud holes, creeks, views to die for, and everything in between.
Levanto Italy:
For about 30 minutes last night, we had close to the most severe thunder
storm I have ever been in. Had I been in a tent, it may have rated as
number one, but, since I was still hoteling it, my high school Jade Lake
experience continues to take the cake.
Tuesday October 25th
Anyway,
on today's menu is a shorter hike from Levanto To Monterosso. It is only
forecast to take about two and a half hours, and, as I have found, that
is probably double the time it will take me to flash it, and probably a
three times multiple for someone who is an actual hiker willing to
push things a bit more than I.
When I finally did make it home, I was a bit
confused at why things on my table did not feel right. I had washed all
the dishes, but there was
bit of sand/dirt on some of them now, and
then, I saw a bit of broken glass, and could not find my one and only Reidel I had brought along on the trip. Damn! This morning there were a
couple of people moving their camp from the lower terrace to the upper terrace I
was on. More sun, drier, more privacy and better views...so who
wouldn't want to?
Not a big deal, and I am
actually quite
surprised it lasted as long as it had. Then I notice a bag.
Levanto, Italy:
Today was basically a chill day. Part of me thinks I should be moving
on, but there is some draw I have to the Italian Rivera, and The Cinque
Terre, that keeps me here for another day.
hill,
and I doubted it would be a good flying day, so instead, took an
afternoon drive on the Autostrada toward Genova to Portofino.
